Notes on Toy Finishes

You can see some of my toys here.

 I am not an expert in finishing. These notes are based on my years of learning.

All paints and finishes sold in the US are considered nontoxic when fully cured. When something is dry, you can touch it without getting paint on your fingers. But when it's cured, all the volatiles have dissipated, and the finish has hardened. A finish can take hours, days, or weeks to cure fully.

Nontoxic doesn't mean you should eat it or that there is no long-term harm if you do. It simply means it won't send you to the emergency room if ingested.

For an easy, clear finish, you can use butcher block conditioner, a combination of mineral oil and wax. Many toy makers use a mineral oil and beeswax blend for a simple, fast finish. However, there is no cure time, and it is not a durable finish.

Polyurethane is an excellent finish that adds a slight amber tint and enhances the wood grain. However, it takes a long time to cure, typically two weeks or more, and requires sanding between coats. I do not recommend using water-based polyurethane.

I recommend acrylic paints for color. Most craft paint brands will work well for painting toys. I sometimes use house paint for certain projects. Flat colors dry fast, with a cure time of 12-24 hours for me. Multiple coats are often needed for some colors, with light sanding between coats. Some colors, such as yellow and orange, require a white base and take multiple coats. You can get acrylic paint in gloss; I rarely use it because the cure time is much longer than flat paint.

To add sheen to flat paint, I apply paste wax and buff it with a soft cotton cloth. For a glossy finish, I use Pledge Revive It Floor Gloss on top, which is clear acrylic. Many clear coatings are also available in aerosol cans, but I don't use these.

Shellac is another excellent finish option. It cures very fast and allows for recoating within minutes. It has been used for centuries to finish furniture and is approved for food use. Shellac can be tricky to work with and requires Scotch Brite abrasive pads or 0000 steel wool instead of sandpaper. Power sanders will melt the shellac and gum up your sandpaper. Shellac can be applied by spraying, brushing, or dipping.

Choosing the Right Finish for Wooden Toys: Finishing Toys With Polyurethane A Toymaker's Perspective

Handmade Wood Toy Monster Truck Made From Oak Poplar and Birch Hardwoods and Finished with Satin Polyurethane, Amber Shellac, and Metallic Saphire Blu Acrylic Paint

Toy Monster Truck
https://www.etsy.com/listing/496711514/ 

Toy Trucks
https://www.etsy.com/shop/odinstoyfactory?section_id=34653279

Toy Cars
https://www.etsy.com/shop/odinstoyfactory?section_id=34638962

As a toymaker, I understand that choosing the right finish for wooden toys is crucial to ensuring their longevity and beauty. Each finish has unique qualities and properties that can enhance the natural beauty of the wood while protecting against wear and tear.

One finish that I often use is satin polyurethane. This finish is incredibly durable and repels water better than most other finishes. Moreover, it adds an eye-catching glow to the wood grain. However, it's important to note that I use the traditional solvent-based polyurethane, not the water-based version, which tends to be less durable and transparent.

Polyurethane is an excellent option for finishing wooden toys because it can withstand heavy use and protects against wear and tear. However, it can take longer to cure than other finishes, so I always need to make sure I have enough time for it to dry and cure properly.

Ultimately, the choice of finish depends on the specific needs of the toy and the look I want to achieve. I often opt for satin polyurethane when I want a durable and visually stunning finish. It is particularly useful for highlighting the wood grain and adding a natural sheen to the toy.

However, other finishes, such as oil and wax, can be great options depending on the desired effect. Oil finishes are ideal for bringing out the wood's natural color and grain, while wax finishes add a beautiful sheen and a protective layer to the wood.

In conclusion, as a toymaker, I've learned that selecting the right finish for wooden toys is crucial in ensuring their longevity and beauty. Each finish has unique qualities and properties, and the choice ultimately depends on the specific needs of the toy and the desired look. While satin polyurethane is my go-to finish for many of my toys, it's essential to explore all the options and choose the one that works best for each project.

#odinstoyfactory #handmade #woodtoys #madeinusa #madeinamerica

Which Finish Should I Use On My Toys?

It's not a simple choice when you intend to sell them or even give them away. You have to consider the age of the person the toy is designed for. There are several finishes to choose from when finishing wooden toys.

• Drying Oils
• Non-Drying Oils
• Polyurethane
• Shellac
• Paint

There may be others, but these are the ones I have used.

If I am making a toy intended for a child under three years old that puts everything in their mouth and likes to chew on things No finish at all is probably the best choice. These toys should be very simple and made from woods like hard maple. Although ti its used by many toymakers, I would not put any sort of oil on these toys.

In my totally unscientific testing, I find that kids will almost always go for the painted toys. I have seen a few exceptions to this, but not many. Where the kids get to look at the toys, the painted toys may rule the day. If selling online adults are usually the shoppers. They seem to like to see the wood grain, but not always. I have had customers tell me that they prefer the rustic look. Then there is what colors to use. If you want to sell your toys, you have to pick colors that someone you do not know will like.


For kids three years old and up, my target market. My rule is anything but non-drying oil finishes is good. All of the finishes are nontoxic when cured.

In my online store and in social media that gets the most views is a pine bodied hot rod finished with shellac. It is rapidly overtaken by a pinewood car finished with polyurethane. Being sure what drives these things is very difficult. In this case, I think that the photography may have something to do with it. The difference is quite significant. Within the first week, it passed the longstanding top listing that had been there for more than a year.

32 Ford Sedan Hot Rod finished with amber shellac, and a bit of acrylic paint is the current leader for the last 12 months in my Etsy shop.

A Hot Rod 27 T-Coupe is the up and coming challenger poised to overtake the leader after only a short time.

My top five listings are a mix of polyurethane, shellac, paint and unfinished toys. I know this is not really a scientific method, but I work with the data that I have. Recently I posted a link to a painted car I was making on my Pinterest board. After the posting, my Pinterest views went up by more than 300k. I have a suspicion that this one will upset the apple cart. How did I pick the colors? I didn't, my grandson picked colors that I never would have chosen.

Wooden Toy Car - Bad Bob Motors Coupe - Amber Shellac - Green - Yellow

Confused yet. I am.

My current take on all of this is that it depends. I work a lot with pine. If the grain looks nice, I will use polyurethane. Otherwise, it will get paint or shellac. When I make custom orders, I make extras. Just in case one is damaged or broken I have more than one and I don't need to start over. Sometimes one of these will have some beautiful grain. I will save that one to finish with polyurethane. Playsets pretty much demand paint. Toys made from MDF always get painted. I never apply any of the wood blocks I make and would not use any kind of finish on blocks.

Finishing toys are difficult. You may find that finishing is the most time consuming and difficult part of making toys.  It's a complicated issue. I have only touched the surface of.  I have more posts planned to discuss it.