Notes on Toy Finishes

You can see some of my toys here.

 I am not an expert in finishing. These notes are based on my years of learning.

All paints and finishes sold in the US are considered nontoxic when fully cured. When something is dry, you can touch it without getting paint on your fingers. But when it's cured, all the volatiles have dissipated, and the finish has hardened. A finish can take hours, days, or weeks to cure fully.

Nontoxic doesn't mean you should eat it or that there is no long-term harm if you do. It simply means it won't send you to the emergency room if ingested.

For an easy, clear finish, you can use butcher block conditioner, a combination of mineral oil and wax. Many toy makers use a mineral oil and beeswax blend for a simple, fast finish. However, there is no cure time, and it is not a durable finish.

Polyurethane is an excellent finish that adds a slight amber tint and enhances the wood grain. However, it takes a long time to cure, typically two weeks or more, and requires sanding between coats. I do not recommend using water-based polyurethane.

I recommend acrylic paints for color. Most craft paint brands will work well for painting toys. I sometimes use house paint for certain projects. Flat colors dry fast, with a cure time of 12-24 hours for me. Multiple coats are often needed for some colors, with light sanding between coats. Some colors, such as yellow and orange, require a white base and take multiple coats. You can get acrylic paint in gloss; I rarely use it because the cure time is much longer than flat paint.

To add sheen to flat paint, I apply paste wax and buff it with a soft cotton cloth. For a glossy finish, I use Pledge Revive It Floor Gloss on top, which is clear acrylic. Many clear coatings are also available in aerosol cans, but I don't use these.

Shellac is another excellent finish option. It cures very fast and allows for recoating within minutes. It has been used for centuries to finish furniture and is approved for food use. Shellac can be tricky to work with and requires Scotch Brite abrasive pads or 0000 steel wool instead of sandpaper. Power sanders will melt the shellac and gum up your sandpaper. Shellac can be applied by spraying, brushing, or dipping.

Painting Handmade Wood Toys: Tips and Considerations for Using Acrylic Paint

Handmade Wood Toy Cars Hot Rod Freaky Fords Being Painted With Acrylic Baby Blue Paint

Hot Rods
https://www.etsy.com/shop/odinstoyfactory?search_query=Hot+Rod

Toy Cars
https://www.etsy.com/shop/odinstoyfactory?section_id=34638962

Toy Trucks
https://www.etsy.com/shop/odinstoyfactory?section_id=34653279

Painting handmade wood toys can be a fun and creative way to add color and personality to your creations. While many types of paints exist, acrylic paints are often favored due to their versatility and ease of use. This blog post will discuss some tips and considerations when using acrylic paint to paint handmade wood toys, explicitly focusing on drying time vs. cure time.

First, let's briefly review the difference between drying and cure times. Drying time refers to the amount of time it takes for the solvent in the paint (in the case of acrylics, water) to evaporate, leaving behind a dry paint film. Curing and drying are usually measured in hours or days and vary depending on factors such as the thickness of the paint layer, the humidity and temperature of the environment, and the type of surface being painted on. Cure time, however, refers to the time it takes for the paint to harden and fully reach its maximum durability and adhesion. Depending on the same factors as drying time, this can take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks.

When painting handmade wood toys with acrylic paint, it is essential to keep both drying and cure time in mind. Here are some tips to help ensure a successful paint job:

1. Prepare the surface: Before painting, ensure the wood surface is clean and free of dust or debris. Use sandpaper to smooth out any rough spots or splinters. Preparation is vital to a good finish.
   
2. Use a primer: Primer and the decision to use it is generally optional and depends on the paint you are using. In some cases,  applying a coat of primer can help the paint adhere better to the wood surface and prevent it from soaking into the grain. I usually want my paint to soak into the grain and rarely use primers.
3. Thin coats: When applying the paint, use thin coats rather than thick ones. Thick coats can take longer to dry and cure and may also be more prone to cracking or peeling. If you need to apply a second coat, wait until the first coat is fully dry. Acrylics need to be bone dry before sanding, and you need to sand between each coat to get a smooth finish. Sanding between coats of paint is especially important if your final coat is a gloss finish.
4. Allow for drying time: It is essential to allow each coat of paint to dry thoroughly before applying another coat or handling the toy. Drying can take anywhere from a few hours to a day or more, depending on the thickness of the coat and the humidity and temperature of the environment. I generally allow acrylic paints to dry overnight (12 or more hours) between coats. The paint needs to be bone dry before sanding. If the paint gums up your sandpaper it isn't dry enough.
5. Allow for cure time: While the paint may feel dry to the touch after a few hours, it is essential to allow for sufficient cure time before handling the toy or exposing it to moisture. Curing can take several days to a few weeks, depending on the same factors as drying time.      In my experience, flat paints dry and cure much faster than satin or gloss paint. I like to let my painted toys rest for several days.
6. Consider a sealant: Once the paint is fully cured, you may want to apply a sealant to protect the paint and the wood surface. Again, make sure to choose a sealant suitable for wood and acrylic paint. Clear acrylics can be used for this purpose, and clear shellac will bond to just about any surface. This step is entirely unnecessary. I only apply a top coat to change the look of the toy. For example, you are applying a clear gloss acrylic to a toy painted with flat paint.

In summary, painting handmade wood toys with acrylic paint can be fun and rewarding, but it is essential to keep drying and cure time in mind. You can ensure a successful paint job by following these tips and allowing for sufficient drying and cure time.

 #odinstoyfactory #handmade #woodtoys #madeinusa #madeinamerica

 

Choosing the Right Finish for Wooden Toys: Finishing Toys With Polyurethane A Toymaker's Perspective

Handmade Wood Toy Monster Truck Made From Oak Poplar and Birch Hardwoods and Finished with Satin Polyurethane, Amber Shellac, and Metallic Saphire Blu Acrylic Paint

Toy Monster Truck
https://www.etsy.com/listing/496711514/ 

Toy Trucks
https://www.etsy.com/shop/odinstoyfactory?section_id=34653279

Toy Cars
https://www.etsy.com/shop/odinstoyfactory?section_id=34638962

As a toymaker, I understand that choosing the right finish for wooden toys is crucial to ensuring their longevity and beauty. Each finish has unique qualities and properties that can enhance the natural beauty of the wood while protecting against wear and tear.

One finish that I often use is satin polyurethane. This finish is incredibly durable and repels water better than most other finishes. Moreover, it adds an eye-catching glow to the wood grain. However, it's important to note that I use the traditional solvent-based polyurethane, not the water-based version, which tends to be less durable and transparent.

Polyurethane is an excellent option for finishing wooden toys because it can withstand heavy use and protects against wear and tear. However, it can take longer to cure than other finishes, so I always need to make sure I have enough time for it to dry and cure properly.

Ultimately, the choice of finish depends on the specific needs of the toy and the look I want to achieve. I often opt for satin polyurethane when I want a durable and visually stunning finish. It is particularly useful for highlighting the wood grain and adding a natural sheen to the toy.

However, other finishes, such as oil and wax, can be great options depending on the desired effect. Oil finishes are ideal for bringing out the wood's natural color and grain, while wax finishes add a beautiful sheen and a protective layer to the wood.

In conclusion, as a toymaker, I've learned that selecting the right finish for wooden toys is crucial in ensuring their longevity and beauty. Each finish has unique qualities and properties, and the choice ultimately depends on the specific needs of the toy and the desired look. While satin polyurethane is my go-to finish for many of my toys, it's essential to explore all the options and choose the one that works best for each project.

#odinstoyfactory #handmade #woodtoys #madeinusa #madeinamerica

Dry vs. Cure: Understanding the Difference in Coatings and Finishes

 

Toy Car Wheels Finished With Fully Cured Shellac and Ready To Be Mounted

 

My Shop Fron Page
http://odinstoyfactory.etsy.com

Dry and cure are two terms commonly used in the context of coatings and finishes. While these terms are often used interchangeably, they refer to two different processes.

Dry refers to the point at which a coating or finish no longer feels tacky or sticky to the touch. When a finish is dry, the solvents or water in the coating have evaporated, leaving behind a film on the surface. However, just because a finish is dry does not necessarily mean it has cured.

Cure refers to the process by which a coating or finish reaches its maximum hardness and durability. This process can take longer than simply drying, involving chemical reactions between the molecules in the coating or finish. During curing, the finish may change color or texture as it hardens and becomes more durable.

Generally, the time it takes for a coating or finish to dry is much shorter than the time it takes to cure. While a finish may feel dry to the touch within a few hours, it may take several days or weeks to cure fully. It is essential to follow the manufacturer's instructions regarding drying and curing times to ensure that the finish reaches its maximum hardness and durability.

#odinstoyfactory #handmade #woodtoys #madeinusa #madeinamerica

How Temperature and Humidity Affect Finish Cure Times

 

Wheels For A Toy Car Curing After A Heavy Coat Of Amber Shellac

 

My Shop Front Page
https://odinstoyfactory.etsy.com

Temperature and humidity are two important factors that can significantly affect the curing process of finishes. The curing process is the time it takes for a finish to completely dry and harden, and it is essential for achieving a durable and long-lasting finish. This blog post will discuss how temperature and humidity can affect finish cure times.

Temperature

Temperature plays a critical role in the curing process of finishes. Warmer temperatures will accelerate the curing process, while colder temperatures will slow it down. This is because the chemical reactions during the curing process are temperature-dependent.

When the temperature is too low, the curing process will take longer and may not even occur. Low temperatures can cause the solvents in the finish to evaporate too slowly, leading to a gummy or sticky finish. On the other hand, high temperatures can cause the finish to cure too quickly, leading to cracking, checking, and other defects.

The ideal temperature for curing finishes is typically between 65°F and 75°F. This temperature range allows the solvents to evaporate at an appropriate rate while allowing the finish to cure fully and develop a durable and long-lasting finish.

Humidity

Humidity is another important factor that can affect the curing process of finishes. Humidity is the amount of moisture present in the air, and it can significantly impact how quickly finishes dry and cure.

High humidity can slow down the curing process, as it can prevent the solvents in the finish from evaporating as quickly. This can lead to a finish that remains tacky or sticky for an extended period. On the other hand, low humidity can cause the finish to dry too quickly, resulting in a brittle finish and prone to cracking.

The ideal humidity for curing finishes is typically between 40% and 60%. This humidity range allows the solvents in the finish to evaporate at an appropriate rate while providing enough moisture to prevent the finish from becoming too brittle or prone to cracking.

Conclusion

In conclusion, temperature and humidity are two important factors that can significantly affect the curing process of finishes. To achieve the best results, paying attention to these factors and ensuring that the temperature and humidity levels are within the recommended range for the type of finish being used is essential. By doing so, you can achieve a durable and long-lasting finish that will look great for years.

#odinstoyfactory #handmade #woodtoys #madeinusa #madeinamerica

Painting Toys With An Airbrush: What airbrush do you recommend?

 

Two of my Badger Anthen 155 Airbrushes

 

 

My Etsy Shop

If you're thinking about painting toys with an airbrush, you may wonder what airbrush to use. One option that we highly recommend is the Badger 155 Anthem airbrush.

This airbrush is versatile and can handle just about any paint or finish used for toy making. It's also a bottom-feed airbrush. There are Badger airbrushes that are top feed. The Badger 360 can be used for top or bottom feed. If you only need a small amount of paint, the top feed option is excellent because it allows you to use just a few drops at a time.

The Badger airbrushes are made in the USA and come with excellent support from the manufacturer. If you have any questions or need help with your airbrush, the team at Badger is there to help.

Overall, if you're looking for a reliable, high-quality airbrush for painting toys, the Badger 155 Anthem is a great choice. It's reliable, easy to use, and will give you great results every time.

Badger 155 - Anthem - Dual Action, Internal Mix, Siphon (Bottom) Feed

The Anthem, Model 155, is the most comfortable, reliable, proficient, cost effective, user friendly airbrush ever. The two angle needle tip precisely mates with the Anthem's cone shaped nozzle enabling a single needle/nozzle configuration to spray virtually any desired material, thus eliminating the need for fine, medium, or large needle/nozzle variations. The Anthem's body design provides exacting balance and long term user comfort. The Anthem® also provides flawless performance in the most rigorous of production airbrushing environments.

FEATURES
• Single needle/nozzle for spraying all mediums, inks, dyes, watercolors, acrylics, enamels, lacquers, glazes, latex, Air-Opaqueª, Air-Tex®, MODELflex® Totally Tattoo® and Totally Tanª colors
• Single needle/nozzle sprays pencil lines to 3" (76mm) spray pattern
• Minimal spare parts to stock
• Easy maintenance and cleaning
• Fastest needle release on the market
• Finger tight assembly tolerances
• Excellent for multiple applications for novice to advanced airbrushers
• Lifetime warranty on labor and PTFE seals
• Fine replacement parts now available

Badger 360 - Dual (Gravity/Bottom) Feed, Dual Action, Internal Mix

The Universal® Model 360 is the only airbrush capable of performing in a gravity feed as well as a bottom feed mode. Never before has one airbrush provided so much versatility. It is two airbrushes in one.

FEATURES
• 360º front end rotation to allow for either gravity or bottom feed usage
• Single nozzle/needle sprays from pencil lines to 3" (76mm) spray pattern
• Single size nozzle/needle design for spraying all materials, acrylics to watercolors, inks to lacquers, Air-Opaque™, Air-Tex®, MODELflex®, Totally Tattoo®, Spectra-Tex® and Totally Tan™ airbrush paints
• Easy access needle assembly
• Finger tight assembly tolerances
• Correct weight apportionment balance system
• Ultra comfort, ergonomically correct trigger cushion
• Lifetime warranty on labor, rotational seal and PTFE seals
• Fine replacement parts now available

 #odinstoyfactory #handmade #woodtoys #madeinusa #madeinamerica

 

Airbrushing for Toy Making: Which air compressor do I use?

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One important thing to note is that any compressor will work for airbrushing as long as you can regulate the pressure and filter the air. It is worth noting that none of the airbrush manufacturers make their compressors. If they do sell compressors, they are usually rebranded products from China. I have successfully used both a standard two-stage tank compressor and a Harbor Freight Central Pneumatic compressor. I even know someone who used a spare tire as an air source to paint a show car in their driveway (they used to sell an adapter that fits onto a valve stem to make this possible).

The Harbor Freight compressor is a reliable and cost-effective option. It is quiet and portable, and it even comes with an airbrush. While I have no personal experience with the Harbor Freight airbrush, I have heard mixed reviews about its performance. It might work if you only plan on spraying paints explicitly designed for airbrushes. However, I often spray cheap acrylics, craft paints, and even house paint, which can have larger pigments that may clog smaller airbrushes. Remember that all paints are different; even different colors from the same brand can spray differently.

It's worth mentioning that airbrushing is a skill that requires practice to develop. It is not a magic solution that automatically gives you a beautiful finish. With enough practice, however, you can achieve great results with your airbrush.

 

Spray Booth For Painting Toys

Spray booths need venting outside., Unless you like brain damage.

I researched this subject a while back and experimented with some cardboard box with a fan and filters. Even with the box fan and filters, I got paint dust all over the shop. This method doesn't filter out fumes. I was using acrylic paint, so I was not concerned about fire. I would not use this configuration to spray solvent based finishes.

If you re spraying outdoors that is a different matter altogether. I know someone who lets his the truck tailgate down and covers the back of his truck with a blue tarp to use for painting.  I have a table I make from saw horses to use when painting outdoors.  I don't use a backstop or a cover on the table. It's getting colorful.

The inexpensive spray booths they sell on eBay and else where are very small and ineffective.  Worst of all they use proprietary filters.

Larger commercial spray booths are available but, they cost prohibitive for a small shop and also use expensive challenging to find filters.

A DIY spray booth is the best alternative I could find. You need one that will spray anything including flammable finishes, filter out the paint overspray with relatively inexpensive, easy to find filters, and exhaust all the fumes outdoors. This DIY spray booth is the best I found. It's on my todo list.

 

 

Build Your Own Paint Spray Booth For Painting Toys

Which Finish Should I Use On My Toys?

It's not a simple choice when you intend to sell them or even give them away. You have to consider the age of the person the toy is designed for. There are several finishes to choose from when finishing wooden toys.

• Drying Oils
• Non-Drying Oils
• Polyurethane
• Shellac
• Paint

There may be others, but these are the ones I have used.

If I am making a toy intended for a child under three years old that puts everything in their mouth and likes to chew on things No finish at all is probably the best choice. These toys should be very simple and made from woods like hard maple. Although ti its used by many toymakers, I would not put any sort of oil on these toys.

In my totally unscientific testing, I find that kids will almost always go for the painted toys. I have seen a few exceptions to this, but not many. Where the kids get to look at the toys, the painted toys may rule the day. If selling online adults are usually the shoppers. They seem to like to see the wood grain, but not always. I have had customers tell me that they prefer the rustic look. Then there is what colors to use. If you want to sell your toys, you have to pick colors that someone you do not know will like.


For kids three years old and up, my target market. My rule is anything but non-drying oil finishes is good. All of the finishes are nontoxic when cured.

In my online store and in social media that gets the most views is a pine bodied hot rod finished with shellac. It is rapidly overtaken by a pinewood car finished with polyurethane. Being sure what drives these things is very difficult. In this case, I think that the photography may have something to do with it. The difference is quite significant. Within the first week, it passed the longstanding top listing that had been there for more than a year.

32 Ford Sedan Hot Rod finished with amber shellac, and a bit of acrylic paint is the current leader for the last 12 months in my Etsy shop.

A Hot Rod 27 T-Coupe is the up and coming challenger poised to overtake the leader after only a short time.

My top five listings are a mix of polyurethane, shellac, paint and unfinished toys. I know this is not really a scientific method, but I work with the data that I have. Recently I posted a link to a painted car I was making on my Pinterest board. After the posting, my Pinterest views went up by more than 300k. I have a suspicion that this one will upset the apple cart. How did I pick the colors? I didn't, my grandson picked colors that I never would have chosen.

Wooden Toy Car - Bad Bob Motors Coupe - Amber Shellac - Green - Yellow

Confused yet. I am.

My current take on all of this is that it depends. I work a lot with pine. If the grain looks nice, I will use polyurethane. Otherwise, it will get paint or shellac. When I make custom orders, I make extras. Just in case one is damaged or broken I have more than one and I don't need to start over. Sometimes one of these will have some beautiful grain. I will save that one to finish with polyurethane. Playsets pretty much demand paint. Toys made from MDF always get painted. I never apply any of the wood blocks I make and would not use any kind of finish on blocks.

Finishing toys are difficult. You may find that finishing is the most time consuming and difficult part of making toys.  It's a complicated issue. I have only touched the surface of.  I have more posts planned to discuss it.

What Airbrush Should I Buy For Painting Toys?

I've made a lot of toys over the years. Most of the toys I made were not finished or had a little polyurethane on them. I didn't paint any of them.

Then one day I saw some painted toys. that looked really nice. I decided that I wanted to try this out for myself. It seemed to me that air brushes would be the way to go. I had an airbrush that I had picked up at a yard sale years ago and an air compressor. I also went to school to learn autobody painting and worked as a painter for a short time. How hard could it be?

It didn't take long before I realised that airbrushing toys was a lot more complicated than I had expected. The paints were very different and worst of all I could not just google up some videos about how to airbrush toys. Most people that were finishing toys were using mineral oil concoctions or rattle can paint. I didn't find a single tutorial how to about painting toys with an air brush. I was going to have to figure this all out for myself.

I started with the airbrush I already owned soon discovering that it needed a bit of help. Fortunately for me it was a Badger and they have parts and support for old air brushes and I was soon able to get it up and running. I wanted to use acrylic paints mainly because the others I looked at required the use of expensive solvents with warnings on the labels about brain damage from inhaling fumes. They were also flammable.

My yard sale airbrush didn't work. I started buying airbrushes and trying them with a variety of acrylic paints. Most of them just didn't work with the paints I wanted to use.

I now own about 10 airbrushes. Badger and Chinese imports. The Chinese airbrushes work if you want to use the expensive paints made for airbrush artists. They didn't work for acrylic house paint or the $0.99 bottles of craft paint they sell at WalMart.

After lots of experimenting, the airbrush I recommend you start with is a Badger Anthem 155. It will spray anything you might want up to and including acrylic house paint and automotive paints. It will spray them all with the same needle. Badger airbrushes have seals that will stand up to lacquer thinners and other harsh solvents. Parts are available cheap from Badger, Amazon, eBay and other sources. You will break something. Drop the needle on a concrete floor and it will be toast. Parts and support are important. Badger will rebuild your air bush for the cost of the parts. Badger is a US company and all their parts are made here.

Badger 155 Anthem Airbrushes

Parts for Chinese air brushes are hard to come by and believe it or not expensive. I broke the tip in one of mine and the replacement cost more than I paid for the airbrush. In some of the Chinese air brushes lacquer thinners and other solvents will eat the seals. Good luck with finding the seals. Essentially they are disposables. If you don't mind buying a new airbrush everytime you breaks a part these may be just the thing you need.

Master Brand Made In China Airbrush Purchased On eBay

I spent way more time and money than I should have to to figure all of this out. The biggest problem was that most of the information that was available on the internet was totally unrelated to what I wanted to do or posted by people that really did understand paints and how they work.  I spent money on things I didn't need just to try them for myself. I have lots of airbrush stuff that I will probably never use again. Save your time and money.

Buy the Badger Anthem 155.

I don't work for Badger and they are not a sponsor.

Testing Behr Oops Paint on a Play Pal Wooden Toy Trailer Truck

2017-05-08 18.38.06 - Wooden Toy - Play Pal - Trailer - Truck - Blue - Behr - Paint - Acrylic

This box trailer version was painted with blue Behr Oops paint from Home Depot with just a little Flowtrol added.  The Flowtrol slows drying and helps the paint to flow out smoother. Flowtrol doesn't help much when I painting on raw wood with a brush but it helps when spraying on smooth surfaces with an airbrush.

House paint doesn't raise the grain near as much as the craft paint does.  I also seems to be more durable than the craft paint. It doesn't rub off like some craft paints. It is cheap and available in a wide array of colors.  Of course oops paint is only available in the colors they have messed up. I check the paint department at Home Depot every time I'm in the store looking for bright colors.  This can of paint cost fifty cents.


Etsy Store: http://OdinsToyFactory.com

#WoodenToys #WoodToys #WoodenToyTruck #WoodToyTruck #OdinsToyFactory #Handmade

Glidden Oops Paint Test On A Wooden Toy Play Pal Trailer Truck

2017-05-08 18.44.30 - Wooden Toy - Play Pal - Trailer - Truck - Pink - Glidden - Paint

I sometimes see sample jars of Glidden Oops paint at my local Home Depot.  I only have 3 cans of it on hand. This was a lighter pink than the Behr I have been using and I wasn't expecting it to cover as well as it did. The trailer in the photo has one coat of paint on bare wood.  It needs  second coat but that will do it.

Sometimes when you buy oops paint the color on the out side of the can doesn't quite match the actual paint color. I think they just don't bother to mix it well before they paint the outside of the can. This was one of those. It was much lighter after it was thoroughly mixed.

I added Flowtrol to this can of paint to help it flow out better. I add about 1 tablespoon or so unmeasured. I just pour what looks like a good amount and  mix it up. I always mark the can so I'll know if I have added it.

This trailer is designed so a standard Play Pall toy car, truck, or van/bus will fit on the trailer and not roll off to easy.  It's not elegant but it works. It also keeps  hot wheels and match box cars in place .  A toy car hauler.


Etsy Store: http://OdinsToyFactory.com

#WoodenToys #WoodToys #WoodenToyTruck #WoodToyTruck #OdinsToyFactory #Handmade

Holding Small Parts While Finishing or Painting

I needed to paint 200+ small dowels and needed some way to hold them. I ask the question in the toy makers forum and got a lot of good suggestions. The problem with these suggestions were that they only work well if your making one toy and only need to hold a few parts. I needed a much better solution that would work for lots of parts.

I finally concluded that I needed something that worked perfectly for the parts I was making. It had to be cheap and easy to make.

The part is exhaust pipes for my Hot Rod Freaky Fords.

These are 1 inch long dowels that are glued into 1/4 inch deep holes. They need to be painted and leave enough pare wood for gluing.

The first thing I came up with was this.

Plywood Jig For Holding Small Parts

Plywood Jig For Holding  Wooden Toy Car Parts While Painting - Exhaust Pipes for Hot Rod Freaky Fords Drying

I just grabbed a piece of plywood that I had already and went to work. After I started painting I soon discovered that not only was it not big enough but that you need at least twice as many holes as the number of parts. What are you going to do with these parts while you are adding the second coat of paint or clear coat.

The holes are 1/4 inch deep on 1/2 inch centers.  Drilled to my next larger bit size. If the holes are not bigger the parts will get stuck.