Tool Review - Harbor Freight Tools - 18 in. Magnetic Tool Holder

If you're looking to bring order to your shop or garage, the Magnetic Tool Holder is a simple yet highly effective solution. This tool organizer is designed to keep your workspace tidy and your tools within easy reach, making it a must-have for DIY enthusiasts, mechanics, and anyone who values a clutter-free environment.

Key Features

• Versatile Storage: This magnetic tool holder is perfect for organizing a wide range of items, from scissors and knives to wrenches and small parts. The strong magnetic strip securely holds tools in place, ensuring they stay put while you work.

• Easy Installation: Mounting is a breeze. You can attach the holder to a wall, workbench, or any flat surface in your garage or shop. It’s a quick setup that delivers instant organization.

• Durable Design: Built with a magnetic strip housed in a sturdy steel U-channel bracket, this tool holder is rugged enough to withstand the demands of a busy shop environment.

• Space-Saving Efficiency: By keeping tools visible and accessible, it clears up valuable workspace and keeps your tools safely out of the way.

My Experience

I’ve installed these magnetic tool holders all over my shop, and they’ve been a game-changer. They excel at holding smaller, lightweight tools. The magnetic grip is reliable, keeping small tools securely in place without slipping.

For heavier tools, the holder performs well as long as the tool has a flat surface for the magnet to latch onto. I’ve used it for pliers and even some medium-sized tools, and it holds up nicely. However, for very heavy or oddly shaped tools, you may need to test the magnet’s strength to ensure a secure hold.

Pros

• Keeps tools organized, visible, and easily accessible

• Simple to mount on various surfaces

• Durable construction suitable for tough shop environments

• Affordable and effective for small to medium tools

Cons

• May struggle with very heavy tools or those without a flat surface

• Magnet strength could vary depending on the tool’s material or weight

Final Verdict

The Magnetic Tool Holder is a fantastic addition to any shop or garage. Its combination of durability, ease of use, and versatility makes it an excellent choice for keeping your tools organized and your workspace efficient. While it’s best suited for lightweight to medium tools with flat surfaces, it’s a reliable and affordable solution for most shop needs. If you’re tired of digging through drawers or cluttered benches, this tool holder is worth every penny.

Rating: 4/5 Stronger magnets would make it a 5/5.
Considering the low cost, I highly recommend these.

 

Powered Sanders I Use For Making Toys And Scroll Saw Projects

Klingspor Sanding Mop Mounted On A Drill Press

 

See my shop here.

• Shopsmith 6" Belt Sander - Useful for curved edges and flat surfaces that I want to remove material quickly. The best tool I have for sanding wheels to size.
• Shopsmith Disc Sander - Sometimes used for making wheels. Although this is not a powered operation, these are use full for sanding small flat parts.
  
• Delta 1" belt sander - It does a great job on outside edges and can be used for some inside curves. I also have the Shopsmith version, which does the same thing and lets me do inside sanding. 
• Klingspor Sanding Mop - Expensive, but worth the cost. Removes most fuzzies and leaves a silky smooth surface.
• Klingspor Mac Mop - Similar to a sanding mop but a bit more aggressive. 
• Ridgid Spindle Sander - Great for sanding inside curves as small as a 1/2 inch radius. It also has an oscillating belt sander. 
• Random Orbital Sanders - I use these for sanding flat surfaces, such as prepping wood for the scroll saw and sanding puzzles. I have four sanders, one Hitachi, and three Bauer random orbit sanders. I have this many sanders, so I don't have to change the sandpaper for each grit. I have the Bauer sanders because the dut port is round.
• Quarter Sheet Palm Sander - I only have this because I have a huge stack of 80-grit sandpaper that fits this. I would not recommend buying one.
• Grizzly Flex Shaft Rotary Tool - I use this with an assortment of drum and flap sanders for sanding inside curves. You can do this with a held rotary tool like a Dremel, but this is lots better. If it ever dies, I will probably buy a Foredom. 

When it comes to woodworking, using power sanding tools is a huge time-saver and can make the job much easier. However, it's crucial to remember that there will come a point where hand sanding is necessary for certain tasks.

Even though power sanders are efficient and fast, they are not always able to achieve the level of precision and smoothness that hand sanding can. When it comes to creating high-quality wood projects, especially intricate ones like toys, hand sanding is an essential step.

I've found that to truly ensure a top-notch finish and texture, incorporating hand sanding into the process is a must. It allows for more control and precision, resulting in a polished final product that's both visually appealing and safe for handling.

So, while power sanding tools are incredibly useful and time-saving, don't forget the importance of hand sanding when it comes to the finer details of your woodworking projects. Em
bracing this technique will undoubtedly elevate the quality of your creations.These are only the power sanding tools. At some point, you will need to resort to hand sanding. To make a quality toy, you must hand sand.

What Speed Do I Need To Use When Cutting With My Scroll Saw

 

My Dinosaur Collection

From Steve Good Blog Post Edited grammar and punctuation,
https://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2024/05/welcome-gnome-scroll-saw-pattern.html

Another similar question concerns setting the speed on a variable-speed scroll saw. When I get a new saw, I determine the maximum speed at which the saw cuts without too much vibration. This is often just slightly below full speed. I run at that maximum speed unless I cut fragile wood, 1/8" or thinner. The thin wood gives little resistance to the blade, making it easy to make misscuts. If that is what I am cutting, I do one of two things: slow the saw's speed down or stack cuts to add resistance.

None of the above advice is an unbreakable rule. Saws are different, people get a different feel from the cuts, and blades are different. My best advice to a new scroller is to try different techniques and use what feels best. You'll learn which blades work best for various cuts, wood, and patterns with practice and experimentation. Remember to take your time, be patient, and enjoy the process!

Choosing the Right Blade for Your Scroll Saw

 

See my dinosaurs here.

 This is the best description I have seen for selecting a scroll saw blade.

From Steve Good Blog Post Edited grammer and punctuation,
https://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2024/05/welcome-gnome-scroll-saw-pattern.html

If you're new to scroll sawing, you may wonder which blade to use for different wood or cuts. While there are general guidelines, the truth is that different saws, blades, and people have different preferences and skills. As an experienced scroller, I can tell you what works for me and offer some tips that may help you get started.

First of all, I rarely choose a blade for the wood. Instead, I select the blade based on the pattern I'm cutting. If the pattern has small interior cuts, I use a #3 or whatever blade I need to get into the small holes. It will cut slowly, but it will cut accurately. When you see people talking about using a #9 blade to cut thicker or harder wood or a #3 for thinner or softer wood, they are talking about the efficiency of the cut. A #9 blade will cut thicker, harder wood faster and break fewer blades, but if the #9 blade won't allow you to get into the interior hole or make the tight turns, it does not work. As a scroller, I care about making accurate cuts, even if they are slow.

I use a #5 scroll reverse or a #3 scroll reverse 95% of the time. Occasionally, if I have a rough cut, I grab a larger blade. I own a lot of blades, and many only get used if I run into a special project.

Some materials require special blades. Metal and Corian are two that come to mind. When cutting metal, you need a blade specifically designed for that purpose. Corian is a type of solid surface material that is very dense and abrasive. You need a blade that can handle the wear and tear of cutting Corian without breaking or dulling too quickly.

My New Pegas Precision Scroll Saw

 

Pegas Precision Scroll Saw

 

My Etsy Shop

My new Pegas saw is up and running. I read the manual and couldn't find any mention of adjusting the upper arm parallel to the table, as my EX-21 says. I did it anyway, as it was so far off I could see it without measuring.

This is the first saw I have ever had with guards in place. There was one on the bottom as well as the top. I removed the top guard because it significantly interfered with installing the blade, and I removed the bottom guard because it banged against the table when the saw was running at high speed. Removing the lower guard required me to remove the table to get to the screws. I replaced the screws in case they were holding something inside.

While the top was off, I discovered that the thin plastic part of the dust collection was only attached to one side. I made one from a piece of magnetic sheet that I had. After waxing the bottom of the table and everything I couldn't reach without removing the table, I reinstalled the top and checked all the alignments.

I did my first cut. I cut some kittens from a 3/4-inch piece of oak. It works great. There is minimal vibration at high speed, and the cuts are smooth.

The Grizzly mobile base that came with the saw will have to go. It adds about 10 inches to the width and gets in the way. One of the wheels is where I want my foot switch to go. Only two wheels are casters, making it more challenging to maneuver in tight spaces. In short, the mobile base takes up too much room.

I'm thrilled with the new Pegas Scroll Saw.

Painting Toys With An Airbrush: What airbrush do you recommend?

 

Two of my Badger Anthem 155 Airbrushes

 

 

My Etsy Shop

Thinking about painting toys with an airbrush? We highly recommend the Badger 155 Anthem airbrush.

This versatile airbrush handles nearly any paint or finish for toy making. It's a bottom-feed model; some Badger airbrushes are top-feed. The Badger 360 works as either. For small amounts of paint, top-feed is ideal, letting you use just a few drops.

Badger airbrushes are made in the USA and come with excellent support. If you have questions or need help, Badger's team is ready to help.

Overall, if you're looking for a reliable, high-quality airbrush for painting toys, the Badger 155 Anthem is a great choice. It's reliable, easy to use, and delivers great results every time.

Badger 155 - Anthem - Dual Action, Internal Mix, Siphon (Bottom) Feed

The Anthem, Model 155, offers comfort, reliability, proficiency, cost-effectiveness, and user-friendliness. Its two-angle needle tip mates with the cone-shaped nozzle, enabling a single needle/nozzle configuration to spray nearly any material, eliminating the need for varying needle/nozzle sizes. The body design prioritizes balance and user comfort, with performance suited for rigorous production environments.

FEATURES
• Single needle/nozzle for spraying all mediums, inks, dyes, watercolors, acrylics, enamels, lacquers, glazes, latex, Air-Opaqueª, Air-Tex®, MODELflex®, Totally Tattoo®, and Totally Tanª colors
• Single needle/nozzle sprays pencil lines to 3" (76mm) spray pattern
• Minimal spare parts to stock
• Easy maintenance and cleaning
• Fastest needle release on the market
• Finger-tight assembly tolerances
• Excellent for multiple applications for novice to advanced airbrushers
• Lifetime warranty on labor and PTFE seals
• Fine replacement parts now available

Badger 360 - Dual (Gravity/Bottom) Feed, Dual Action, Internal Mix

The Universal® Model 360 is the only airbrush that works as both a gravity-feed and a bottom-feed. No other airbrush offers this versatility—it's two-in-one.

FEATURES
• 360º front-end rotation to allow for either gravity or bottom-feed usage
• Single nozzle/needle sprays from pencil lines to 3" (76mm) spray pattern
• Single size nozzle/needle design for spraying all materials, acrylics to watercolors, inks to lacquers, Air-Opaque™, Air-Tex®, MODELflex®, Totally Tattoo®, Spectra-Tex®, and Totally Tan™ airbrush paints
• Easy access needle assembly
• Finger-tight assembly tolerances
• Correct weight apportionment balance system
• Ultra comfort, ergonomically correct trigger cushion
• Lifetime warranty on labor, rotational seal, and PTFE seals
• Fine replacement parts now available

 

Airbrushing for Toy Making: Which air compressor do I use?

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Any compressor can work for airbrushing if you can regulate the pressure and filter the air. Airbrush manufacturers do not make their own compressors; if they sell them, these are typically rebranded products from China. I have used both a standard two-stage tank compressor and a Harbor Freight model. Someone I know once painted a show car in their driveway using a spare tire and a valve stem adapter.

The Harbor Freight compressor is a reliable and cost-effective option. It is quiet and portable, and it even comes with an airbrush. While I have no personal experience with the Harbor Freight airbrush, I have heard mixed reviews about its performance. It might work if you plan to spray only paints specifically designed for airbrushes. However, I often spray cheap acrylics, craft paints, and even house paint, which can have larger pigments that may clog smaller airbrushes. Remember that all paints are different; even different colors from the same brand can spray differently.

Airbrushing takes practice to master. It is not an instant solution, but with enough practice, excellent results are achievable.