What Should I Look For In A Scroll Saw

 

Excalibur EX-21 Scroll Saw

My Etsy Shop

Avoid purchasing a saw that uses pinned blades. You will regret it.

For me, the ease of use and speed of blade changes are paramount.

 

My saws:

• Excalibur EX-21 was purchased used a lot. I have completely rebuilt it. 
• Pegas 21-inch I bought used in like-new condition.

 

What I appreciate about these saws is that when they are properly aligned, no tension adjustment is necessary. You flip a lever to change the blade, then flip it back into place. This design tilts the blade instead of the table, which makes angled cuts easier to achieve. I have access to parts for both of these saws and have completely rebuilt the Excalibur EX-21.

 

The Harbor Freight Bauer scroll saw operates similarly to the EX-21/Pegas saws. The lift mechanism is different. It is the lowest-cost saw of all the saws mentioned here. Harbor Freight's in-store warranty is as good as it gets. If it breaks during the warranty period, you can return it to the store and they will provide you with a replacement. If I were in need of a new saw, I would give this one serious consideration.

 

The Seyco saws are quite similar, but they feature a larger table and a

different tilt mechanism. However, I'm not fond of the table on the Seyco saws. Seyco saws have awesome support. They also support Excalibur and  Pegas saws with parts available for both.

 

Other Scroll Saws

• The Dewalt DW788 is well-regarded and widely available in the US. I have never used a DeWalt saw, but I understand they cut very aggressively. DeWalt saws can be rebuilt.
• Hegner scroll saws are known for their exceptional durability, but I find the blade mounting and tensioning system to be cumbersome. Additionally, they are quite expensive.
• Hawk scroll saws are known for their durability and are made in the USA. I used an older one for several years, but I eventually became frustrated with the blade mounting system. When a blade broke, the clamps would sometimes go flying, and I often found myself crawling on the floor with a flashlight trying to locate them. The newer models may have an improved clamping system.

Why I Think A Scroll Saw Is A Better Tool For Toymakers Than A Bandsaw

My Etsy Shop

I own two bandsaws and two scroll saws. For making toys, a scroll saw is much more useful than a band saw. In making toys, the only thing I have used my bandsaw for is resawing and rocking horses. Scroll saws cut smooth and require very little sanding. Scroll saws easily make inside cuts, something you can't do with a bandsaw. You can make bowls, baskets, puzzles, bandsaw boxes, and much more with a scroll saw.

Woodworking Projects

• Fretwork: Intricate designs cut into thin wood, often used for decorative panels or overlays.
• Intarsia: Mosaic-like wood art where different wood pieces are cut and fitted together to create images or patterns.
• Marquetry: Similar to intarsia, but typically involves veneers to create detailed inlays for furniture or wall art.
• Puzzles: Wooden jigsaw puzzles with interlocking pieces, customizable in shape and complexity.
• Toys: Small wooden toys like cars, animals, or figures with smooth, detailed cuts.
• Ornaments: Holiday or decorative ornaments, such as Christmas tree decorations or seasonal cutouts.
• Clocks: Decorative clock faces or components with intricate patterns or numbers.
• Boxes: Small jewelry or keepsake boxes with detailed lids or inlaid designs.
• Signs: Custom wooden signs with letters, numbers, or logos cut out for home decor or businesses.
• Furniture Accents: Decorative trim or inlays for furniture, like table edges or cabinet panels.
• Picture Frames: Custom frames with unique cutout patterns or designs.
• Shelves: Small decorative shelves with scrollwork edges or supports.

Craft and Decor

• Wall Art: Stand-alone cutouts or layered designs for wall hangings, often with nature or abstract themes.
• Silhouettes: Profile portraits or thematic silhouettes (e.g., animals, people, or landscapes).
• Plaques: Personalized name plaques or inspirational quote signs.
• Coasters: Thin wooden coasters with engraved or cutout patterns.
• Bookmarks: Thin, decorative wooden bookmarks with intricate designs.
• Lampshades or Lanterns: Delicate wooden panels for light diffusion with patterned cutouts.

Functional Items

• Keychains: Small, detailed wooden keychains with custom shapes or names.
• Utensil Handles: Custom handles for kitchen tools or knives.
• Plant Stands or Holders: Small decorative stands for potted plants or vases.
• Pen Holders: Desktop organizers with scroll-cut designs.

Specialty Materials (Beyond Wood)

• Plastic Projects: Cutting thin acrylic or plastic sheets for signs, stencils, or decorative pieces.
• Metal Crafts: With the right blade, cutting thin non-ferrous metals (e.g., brass, copper) for jewelry or small art pieces.
• Foam Crafts: Cutting foam for model-making, cosplay props, or packaging inserts.
• Leather Accents: Cutting thin leather for detailed patterns in accessories or decor.

Miscellaneous

• Model Components: Parts for scale models (e.g., architectural models, trains, or ships).
• Musical Instruments: Decorative parts for instruments, like guitar inlays or ukulele soundhole designs.
• Stencils: Reusable stencils for painting or etching on various surfaces.
• Custom Gears: Small wooden or plastic gears for mechanical or decorative purposes.

Measuring For Scroll Saw Projects

 

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Measuring is a crucial step in any scroll saw project. Whether you're working on intricate designs or simple cuts, accurate measurements are essential for a successful outcome. In my experience, every project I tackle involves precise measuring using rules or squares, and sometimes both. I can't imagine scrolling without measuring.

When I need a specific piece of wood, say a 1/2-inch thick piece, I carefully go through my stash, measuring the thickness of each piece to find the right one. I also measure to ensure that a piece of wood is wide or long enough for the pattern I have in mind. Sometimes, I measure to determine if I can get two or three pieces out of a single piece of wood, optimizing the material and minimizing waste.

To further assist in my measuring tasks, I use Inkscape to size patterns to fit the wood I have selected and sometimes to arrange parts. Resizing patterns to fit is an essential part of the measuring process, ensuring that the final project turns out just as intended.

In a recent project, I printed patterns on half-sheet shipping labels and measured the size of the labels. Using Inkscape, I resized the pattern to fit the label and carefully measured the size of the smallest internal cut to ensure I could drill a hole small enough for this size pattern to work. This attention to detail during the measuring process can make a significant difference in the final result.

As a maker of puzzles, I often work with 1x6 wood. In such cases, I use the pattern itself to measure and apply it to a longboard, then cutting it to fit.

Overall, measuring is an indispensable part of scroll saw projects. It ensures accuracy, efficiency, and a successful end result. So, next time you embark on a scroll saw project, remember the importance of precise measuring – it can truly make all the difference.

Testing Scroll Saw Blades For Cutting 2x Construction Lumber

 

12 Wooden Truck Bodies Cut From 2x Construction Lumber

 

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I am working on a custom order for a batch of toy trucks that I cut from 2x construction lumber. I usually only make things from construction lumber one at a time. Still, this time, I am making twelve trucks all the same, and this was an excellent opportunity to experiment.

If you have ever cut 2x construction lumber on a scroll saw, you know this stuff can be a pain to work with. Hard and soft grain, hidden knots, pitch pockets, and other defects are common. It is a challenging wood to scroll. I could use a band saw for this, but I prefer to cut slower and get a smoother cut. Less sanding is the goal.

I have been scrolling for years and acquired a considerable collection of blades, including Olson, Flying Dutchman, Pagas, and several others whose sources I no longer know are in my blade collection. I used a variety of these blades in the test. I started with Pegas #3MGT because that was already in the saw. I tried #5, #7, and #12 blades from each of the brands I have on hand and included one Olson Thick Wood Hook Tooth blade designed for cutting thick wood. Some blades had reverse teeth, and some didn't.

All of the blades worked, but the difference between cutting 2x construction lumber was dramatic. Olson, Flying Dutchman, and the unknown blades cut poorly and were only suitable for cutting one truck body before they were dull. There was considerable jumping, which I assume is caused by the blade failing to clear the sawdust well. Each time there was a jump, a mark was left on the wood that must be sanded out. A couple of the blades left some burn marks on the not-so-sharp turns.

The Pegas blades dramatically outperformed the others, so much so that it was not even a contest. The used Pegas #3MGT cut slowly, but there was no burning or jumping, and the cuts were smooth and square. I cut the last two trucks with a Pegas #12MGT. The results were surprising: not only did it cut very well, but it cut even faster than the Olsen Thick Wood blades. There was no burning, no jumping, and after cutting two truck bodies, it was still cutting well enough to cut one or two more trucks. The difference was so dramatic that when I left the shop, I thought that I should get rid of all my non-Pegas blades.

Only one of the blades broke: the Olson Thick Wood Hook Tooth blade broke while cutting one of the straight sections. This seems a little odd since it is by far the largest blade I have, larger than 1/16 inch.

What Speed Do I Need To Use When Cutting With My Scroll Saw

 

My Dinosaur Collection

From Steve Good Blog Post Edited grammer and punctuation,
https://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2024/05/welcome-gnome-scroll-saw-pattern.html

Another similar question concerns setting the speed on a variable-speed scroll saw. When I get a new saw, I determine the maximum speed at which the saw cuts without too much vibration. This is often just slightly below full speed. I run at that maximum speed unless I cut fragile wood, 1/8" or thinner. The thin wood gives little resistance to the blade, making it easy to make miscuts. If that is what I am cutting, I do one of two things: slow the saw's speed down or stack cuts to add resistance.

None of the above advice is an unbreakable rule. Saws are different, people get a different feel from the cuts, and blades are different. My best advice to a new scroller is to try different techniques and use what feels best. You'll learn which blades work best for various cuts, wood, and patterns with practice and experimentation. Remember to take your time, be patient, and enjoy the process!

Choosing the Right Blade for Your Scroll Saw

 

See my dinosaurs here.

 This is the best description I have seen for selecting a scroll saw blade.

From Steve Good Blog Post Edited grammer and punctuation,
https://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2024/05/welcome-gnome-scroll-saw-pattern.html

If you're new to scroll sawing, you may wonder which blade to use for different wood or cuts. While there are general guidelines, the truth is that different saws, blades, and people have different preferences and skills. As an experienced scroller, I can tell you what works for me and offer some tips that may help you get started.

First of all, I rarely choose a blade for the wood. Instead, I select the blade based on the pattern I'm cutting. If the pattern has small interior cuts, I use a #3 or whatever blade I need to get into the small holes. It will cut slowly, but it will cut accurately. When you see people talking about using a #9 blade to cut thicker or harder wood or a #3 for thinner or softer wood, they are talking about the efficiency of the cut. A #9 blade will cut thicker, harder wood faster and break fewer blades, but if the #9 blade won't allow you to get into the interior hole or make the tight turns, it does not work. As a scroller, I care about making accurate cuts, even if they are slow.

I use a #5 scroll reverse or a #3 scroll reverse 95% of the time. Occasionally, if I have a rough cut, I grab a larger blade. I own a lot of blades, and many only get used if I run into a special project.

Some materials require special blades. Metal and Corian are two that come to mind. When cutting metal, you need a blade specifically designed for that purpose. Corian is a type of solid surface material that is very dense and abrasive. You need a blade that can handle the wear and tear of cutting Corian without breaking or dulling too quickly.

The Benefits of Using Digital (SVG) To Make Paper Patterns For Scroll Sawng Projects vs Templates

Creating precision toy truck parts with the help of hardboard templates and nails to mark the axle holes.

 

 

My Goimagine Shop

I've been making toys and other small projects for over 40 years. When I first started, I used templates. However, everything changed when I discovered the power of Inkscape, a free and open-source vector graphics editor.

When I first started using a scroll saw, I made project templates. I would trace the pattern and create a template using plastic laminates, hardboard, thin plywood, and posterboard. Eventually, I had boxes full of unorganized templates and a pain to search through. Once I had a scanner and could print paper patterns, this changed.

When starting a new project, I scan the pattern and convert it to SVG format. From that point, I can make the lines any size and print as many as I want. The lines on paper are much easier to see and follow. Clear, precise lines can be essential for projects requiring precise cutting. Using Inkscape, I can change the width of the lines and make them any color I want.

One of the templates I rely on in my shop ensures that the fenders on this toy car are perfectly aligned every time.

A significant benefit of using Inkscape for woodworking projects is the ability to arrange parts to maximize the use of the wood. By setting the page size to the size of the wood and organizing all the pieces for the best fit, I can minimize waste and save money on materials. This feature is handy for larger projects that require a lot of parts.

In addition to saving money on materials, Inkscape has also made it easier for me to create custom personalized projects. I can change a design to add a name, date, or any other personal touch in seconds. This feature has been a hit with family and friends who have received these personalized gifts.

Finally, there's the issue of storage and backups. Every digital pattern is stored offsite and in multiple locations automatically. The storage space required is essentially zero since I would have a computer even if I were not woodworking. If I name my files well, finding them is a piece of cake.

Because of all these benefits, I'm never going back to using templates. Inkscape and scanners have revolutionized the way I approach scroll saw projects. Today, I consider them essential tools in my woodworking shop.

#odinstoyfactory #handmade #woodtoys #madeinusa #madeinamerica #goimagine

I Sold My RBI Hawk 220 Scroll Saw - A Little History

RBI Hawk 220 Scroll Saw

If I had the floor space, I might have kept it. It took about three weeks to sell on the Facebook marketplace, and I let it go for $100.00 with some blades and spare parts.

I bought it several years ago, covered with dust and sitting in the back of a barn. I spent well over $100 refurbishing it, and it was my go-to saw for a long time until I purchased a used Excalibur EX-21. It didn't take long before the Hawk was collecting dust. I gave away my old AMT 16-inch saw to a friend, and the Hawk became my backup saw. My EX-21 is my backup, and a Pegas saw is my primary.

While I had my AMT, EX-21, and Hawk scroll saws sitting next to each other, I experimented. I cut the pattern using the same wood and blade type on all three saws. There was very little difference in the way they cut. Surprisingly, the AMT saw produced a smoother cut than the other two. For me, blade changes trumped everything, so the EX-21 was the winner.

The AMT had to go, and I began a search for another use, EX-21. By this time, they didn't make new EX-21 saws anymore, and no one was selling used ones anywhere within a day's drive. They started making them in China, but these seemed to be junk. After over two years of watching for a used saw, I was about ready to pull the trigger on a new Pegas when I accidentally stumbled across a used Pegas in new condition for sale on the Facebook marketplace. How the ad was worded would never show up in a search for scroll saw. It took me two days to get it, but it was worth the trip. The Pegas had been purchased new and never used.

So now I need to clear out enough room for the Pegas bandsaw. 

I cut a lot of projects on this 16 Inch AMT Scroll Saw

My New Pegas Precision Scroll Saw

 

Pegas Precision Scroll Saw

 

My new Pegas saw is up and running. I read the manual and could not find any place where it talked about adjusting the upper arm parallel to the table, as my EX-21 says. I did it anyway, as it was so far off I could see it without measuring.

This is the first saw I have ever had that has the guards in place. There was one on the bottom as well as the top. I removed the top guard because it significantly interfered with installing the blade, and I removed the bottom guard because it banged against the table when the saw was rum at high speed. Removing the lower guard required me to remove the table to get to the screws. I replaced the screws in case they were holding something inside.

While the top was off, I discovered that the thin plastic part of the dust collection was only attached to one side. I made one from a piece of magnetic sheet that I had. After waxing the bottom of the table and everything I could not get to without removing the table, I reinstalled the top and checked all of the alignments.

I did my first cut. I cut some kittens from a 3/4-inch piece of oak. It works great. There is minimal vibration at high speed, and the cuts are smooth.

The Grizzly mobile base that came with the saw will have to go. It adds about 10 inches to the width and gets in the way. One of the wheels is where I want my foot switch to go. Only two wheels are casters, making it more challenging to maneuver in tight spaces. In short, the mobile base takes up to much room.

I'm thrilled with the new Pegas Scroll Saw. 

Why I Don't Recomend Old Used RBI Hawk Saws

Name Plate From My Old RBI Hawk 220 Serial Number 1384

I have no experience with the modern RBI Hawk scrollsaws. This post is about those that have round blade holders. Once you have had to crawl around on the floor looking for one of the round holders that popped out and rolled across the floor to some hiding place, you will understand why this is the main reason I do not like the old RBI Hawk.

As a woodworker, having the right tools for the job is essential to producing quality work. One of the tools that I use frequently is my scroll saw. I have two models: my old two-speed 226 Hawk and my Excalibur EX-21. In this post, I will compare the two saws and explain why I prefer the Excalibur EX-21.

First, let's examine what I don't like about my old 226 Hawk. To start, the round blade holder is a nuisance. Additionally, reaching the back of the saw to release the blade tension is difficult. The blade mounting system is also a pain to use. I need a tool to hold the top clamp in place, which can be frustrating if I don't remember to use it. The aluminum table top is a personal preference, but I prefer steel or cast iron. Finally, if I change blade sizes, I must adjust the tension. You need to do so to prevent the blade from breaking shortly after starting the saw.

Now, let's talk about why I prefer the Excalibur EX-21. First, it is easy to tension once you have it set up correctly. Just flip the front lever, and you're done. Changing blades is simple and fast, and the steel table allows me to position lights or any other magnetic thing anywhere. The blade holders don't come off; internal cuts are quick and easy. I never have to crawl around the floor looking for dropped parts, and I can change blades to a different size without adjustment.

One thing to note is that I did change the clip on the Hawk 226 to the newer style, which is plastic with ears on the side. If the blade breaks, the bottom blade clamp will drop almost every time. Usually, the clamp remains on the saw under the table. The older metal clamp drops the clamp a lot less, but when it does, it is on the floor somewhere and rarely on the saw.

RBI Hawk Clamp Holders Old Steel vs New Plastic

Lastly, I have three different clamps for the hawk. Two will not work with the plastic holder because they are too small. The larger one works with the plastic and the steel holder. The brass part is a removable adapter.

RBI Hawk 3 Diffrent Lower Blade Clamps For the Same Saw

RBI Hawk New Style New Style Lower Clamp and Retainer Holder

In conclusion, while my old two-speed 226 Hawk served me well for a long time, I prefer my Excalibur EX-21. Its ease of use, quick blade changes, and steel table top make it a superior tool in my workshop. If you're looking for a scroll, I highly recommend the Excalibur EX-21, but only if you get one made in Taiwan. If you buy a new saw, the Pegas is a good choice as it is an updated version of the EX-21.

 

Testing My EX-21 Scroll Saw Aftter Aome Major Repairs

Christmas Tree Ornament Cut From Reclaimed Plywood

Ornamentsi In My Shop: https://www.etsy.com/shop/odinstoyfactory?section_id=27235904

I recently had some significant problems with my scroll saw. I would up replacing the motor and the control board. The motor would randomly stop and finally quit for good. Leading up to this, it vibrated more and would break a #2 blade within seconds of starting the saw. I have been testing with  #2 blade since the repair.

These are cut from a piece of 1/8-inch thick reclaimed plywood I had on hand, with the idea that if they worked out OK, I would add them to my shop. That part could have worked out better. Looking closely at the photos, you can see several places where the veneer is coming off. And a few spots where the glue from the next layer is showing through.

They are dipped in a 50/50 solution of clear shellac as an experiment to see how well this works.

 

 

Restocking Spiders From The Snazzy Spooks Collection

Wood Toy Spider Cutout On My EX21 Scroll Saw

 Buy One of thes Spiders 

Snazzy Spooks Collection

I made another batch of spiders today. I cut these on my Excalibur EX21 scroll saw using a Pegas #3R  Modified Geometry blade. Quality checks are done throughout the process, and defective spiders are discarded. One spider out of five was discarded this time.

The wood is pine and was prepared by sanding it before I applied the pattern. I print my patterns on a laser printer using Inkscape. I prefer to use 3m 77 adhesive to adhere patterns directly to the wood. The patterns and adhesive are easy to remove with mineral spirits, and there is no damage to the wood surface, as sometimes when I use blue painter's tape. After applying the patterns, I cut the boards into smaller pieces using a miter saw, with one spider per piece. Cutting the patterns apart is optional. I like to work with smaller pieces and find rectangular cutoffs easier to work with later.

Once the adhesive is removed, the spiders are sanded again using a sanding mop, belt sander, and random orbit sander. 

#odinstoyfactory #handmade #woodtoys #madeinusa #madeinamerica

 

Scroll Saw Footswitch

Scroll Saw Footswitch

 

I have a foot pedal on my EX21 mounted on the mobile base. It is situated so that my relaxed left foot depresses the switch when sitting at the saw. I did not do this by design. I did not like it on the floor because it kept moving around every time the cord got bumped.

I added a power strip to the back of the stand to have a convenient place to plug in my lights and turn everything on at once. As I was tying up all the wiring, I decided to mount the pedal and tie down all the wiring, so it didn't move around. Totally by accident, I came up with a workable solution for me. I was about ready to give up on foot peddles.

I don't know what kind of switch it is. It came with the EX21 when I bought it.

My RBI Hawk does not have a peddle, and it does not bother me to use it without one, perhaps because I used scroll saws for years without a footswitch.

Some Thoughts On Buying Your First Scroll Saw

My First Scroll Saw AMT Made In Taiwan Bought New About 1983

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https://odinstoyfactory.etsy.com

Stay away from anything that uses pin end blades. Why? Because blade selection will be very limited. My first saw had pined blades, but it only took me a few weeks before I upgraded to use pinless blades.

I used this saw for years until I picked up a use RBI Hawk for $100 that needed a little TLC.

I make a lot of toys with this saw. Cutting fretwork was a challenge because the blade changes took so long. I think it cut as good or better than both of my current saws. With the right blade and hardwood, I could get smooth glass cuts. I only got rid of it after I picked up a used Excalibur EX21 because I stumbled across a video describing how easy it was to do interior cuts. Fast blade change was a game-changer for me. I had recently started selling some of my creations, and time is money. I gave the AMT saw to a friend, and it is still in use today. The only problem I ever had with it was the blower that came with it was junk, but an aquarium pump quickly took care of that. It is the only new saw I ever purchased.

I think a used scroll saw the way to go if they are available. Used scroll saws are rare in my area, but I keep searches running all the time on Crags List and Facebook Market Place just in case something interesting pops up nearby. I some areas, used saws are for sale all the time.

Test it as best you can before you buy, and be prepared to spend a little on the saw after you get it. An older scroll saw that has been sitting for a while might need a little TLC. I spent about $100 on upgrades and replacement parts for my RBI Hawk.

If you can't work on the, saw yourself is the only reason I can think of not buying used. Paying someone to upgrade or repair your saw would negate any savings you get from buying used.

 

#odinstoyfactory #handmade #woodtoys #madeinusa #madeinamerica #tools  #woodworking #scrollsaw

My First Scroll Saw was an AMT 1600

 

AMT 1600 Scroll Saw

My first scroll saw was this AMT 1600 purchased in the early eighties.  It used pin-end blades. I soon discovered when I started cutting fretwork that I needed a saw that uses pinless blades. I was able to purchase a modification kit that let me use pinless blades.  Changing blades and making through cuts was a bit of a chore, but I didn't know any better at the time. The saw cut great and was capable of cutting smooth glass cuts in hardwoods. I made toys, fretwork, and chess pieces using this saw. I gave it away a few years ago after purchasing an Excalibur EX21. 

The blower was net to useless an was replaced with an aquarium pump.

The stand was a Craftsman Universal tool stand I purchased from Sears.

There are many AMT scroll saws for sale used, and they will do quite well for a beginner.

 

Scroll Saw Blade Clamp Alignment

Excalibur EX21 Scroll Saw Top Clamp

It's essential to have both blade clamp set screws lined up perpendicular to one another. Otherwise, you get side-to-side travel in the blade.

• Install and tension a fine-tooth blade.
• Manually move the saw to the top of its stroke.
• Place a metal rule on the table against the right side of the blade.
• Manually move the arms to the bottom of the stroke.
• If the blade moves away from the end of the ruler, the bottom screw needs to be "deeper" in the clamp, or the top needs to be "shallower."
• If the blade pushes the ruler away, the bottom screw needs to be "shallower' or the clamp on the top needs to be "deeper."
• Repeat until there is no difference between the top and bottom of the stroke. I like to start with mine in the center.

With the blade clamps in alignment and the blade square to the table, it is possible to get smooth glassy cuts.

DIY Scroll Saw Sander

DIY Scroll Saw Sander Mounted ON AN Excalibur EX21 Scroll Saw

Scroll saw sanding blades are made by several companies, and you can find them many places. They are a bit pricy and don't fit some scroll saws without modification. These are very easy to make.

All you need to make a sander for your scroll saw is an old saw blade, a piece of cloth-backed sandpaper, and some carpet tape. Cut two strips of sandpaper about 1/4-inch wide. Put carpet tape on the back and make a sandwich with an old scroll saw blade in the center.

I tried paper-backed sandpaper.  It didn't hold up well. I have also tried various glues to hold them together, and nothing works as good as the carpet tape.

You will not get square edges sanding with this method. There will always be a slight curve.

Use Sewing Machine Lights For Your Scroll Saw

I recently purchased two magnetic sewing machine lights to use on my scroll saw. I have been quite pleased with them. Bright white light, and they don't move. I highly recommend these. They come with steel disks that you can stick on to any smooth surface, so the magnet mount will work even on aluminum, plastic, glass, or another smooth surface. These cost me $12 US each. Well worth the money.

Excalibur EX21 Scroll Saw Sewing Machine Lights Hot Rod Freaky Fords Mini-Van Yellow Pine Wood Toy Cars

Excalibur EX21 Scroll Saw Sewing Machine Lights Hot Rod Freaky Fords Mini-Van Yellow Pine Wood Toy Cars

I cut the toy cars in the photos from a piece of southern yellow pine using this scroll saw. I used several different size blades, and other than the coarser blades cutting a little faster, I could not see much difference. 

My First Scroll Saw - Beginners Scroll Saw

AMT Scroll Saw

This was my first scroll saw and the only one I used for forty plus years. I cut a lot of projects on this saw. I purchased it new direct from AMT. It is solid cast iron, which I am sure helped a lot with the vibration.

The stand I purchased from Sears after the first attempt at cutting. At the time, I did all my work outdoors, and it was evident that using a scroll saw sitting on some 2x4s stretched across sawhorses wasn't going to hack it.

I made some simple projects from one of Patrick Spielman's books and learned to use the saw cutting out little animals pallet wood.  Forty years later, my grandson plays with these. I still make them using small bits of wood leftover from other projects.

Handmade Wooden Toys Elephant Puzzle and Animal Cut Outs Made With My Scroll Saw

I soon discovered that pin end blades were inadequate for most scroll saw work.  Fortunately, there was a kit available for my saw that let me use pin end blades. I cut lots of fretwork patterns, one I could use pinless blades, and the blade selection was much better.

Scroll Saw Layered Wood Toy Animals, Cat, Giraffe, Puppy, Cat, I cut with my AMT

Many years later, I bought an old RBI Hawk two speed saw cheap and refurbished it.  I used this saw for a couple of years while the AMT collected dust. It didn't cut better, but the blade changes were much improved, and I liked being able to cut standing up.

Fretwork Rose I made from oak reclaimed from pallets using my AMT scroll saw

Then one day I saw a short video demonstrating how easy it was to change the blades on an Excalibur EX21 scroll saw. I wanted one badly but not for $800. I got lucky, and a used EX21 showed up on my local Craigslist.

Fretwork Grape Vine Shelf  - One of many fretwork projects I cut with my AMT scroll saw.

I surely didn't need three scroll saws, so I gave the AMT to a friend, but only after doing a side by side comparison where I cut the same project on all three saws. EX21 wins. Blade changes trumped and advantage the other saws had. As far as cut quality goes, I could not tell a diffrence.