What Should I Look For In A Scroll Saw

 

Excalibur EX-21 Scroll Saw

My Etsy Shop

Avoid purchasing a saw that uses pinned blades. You will regret it.

For me, the ease of use and speed of blade changes are paramount.

 

My saws:

• Excalibur EX-21 was purchased used a lot. I have completely rebuilt it. 
• Pegas 21-inch I bought used in like-new condition.

 

What I appreciate about these saws is that when they are properly aligned, no tension adjustment is necessary. You flip a lever to change the blade, then flip it back into place. This design tilts the blade instead of the table, which makes angled cuts easier to achieve. I have access to parts for both of these saws and have completely rebuilt the Excalibur EX-21.

 

The Harbor Freight Bauer scroll saw operates similarly to the EX-21/Pegas saws. The lift mechanism is different. It is the lowest-cost saw of all the saws mentioned here. Harbor Freight's in-store warranty is as good as it gets. If it breaks during the warranty period, you can return it to the store and they will provide you with a replacement. If I were in need of a new saw, I would give this one serious consideration.

 

The Seyco saws are quite similar, but they feature a larger table and a

different tilt mechanism. However, I'm not fond of the table on the Seyco saws. Seyco saws have awesome support. They also support Excalibur and  Pegas saws with parts available for both.

 

Other Scroll Saws

• The Dewalt DW788 is well-regarded and widely available in the US. I have never used a DeWalt saw, but I understand they cut very aggressively. DeWalt saws can be rebuilt.
• Hegner scroll saws are known for their exceptional durability, but I find the blade mounting and tensioning system to be cumbersome. Additionally, they are quite expensive.
• Hawk scroll saws are known for their durability and are made in the USA. I used an older one for several years, but I eventually became frustrated with the blade mounting system. When a blade broke, the clamps would sometimes go flying, and I often found myself crawling on the floor with a flashlight trying to locate them. The newer models may have an improved clamping system.

Why I Think A Scroll Saw Is A Better Tool For Toymakers Than A Bandsaw

My Etsy Shop

I own two bandsaws and two scroll saws. For making toys, a scroll saw is much more useful than a band saw. In making toys, the only thing I have used my bandsaw for is resawing and rocking horses. Scroll saws cut smooth and require very little sanding. Scroll saws easily make inside cuts, something you can't do with a bandsaw. You can make bowls, baskets, puzzles, bandsaw boxes, and much more with a scroll saw.

Woodworking Projects

• Fretwork: Intricate designs cut into thin wood, often used for decorative panels or overlays.
• Intarsia: Mosaic-like wood art where different wood pieces are cut and fitted together to create images or patterns.
• Marquetry: Similar to intarsia, but typically involves veneers to create detailed inlays for furniture or wall art.
• Puzzles: Wooden jigsaw puzzles with interlocking pieces, customizable in shape and complexity.
• Toys: Small wooden toys like cars, animals, or figures with smooth, detailed cuts.
• Ornaments: Holiday or decorative ornaments, such as Christmas tree decorations or seasonal cutouts.
• Clocks: Decorative clock faces or components with intricate patterns or numbers.
• Boxes: Small jewelry or keepsake boxes with detailed lids or inlaid designs.
• Signs: Custom wooden signs with letters, numbers, or logos cut out for home decor or businesses.
• Furniture Accents: Decorative trim or inlays for furniture, like table edges or cabinet panels.
• Picture Frames: Custom frames with unique cutout patterns or designs.
• Shelves: Small decorative shelves with scrollwork edges or supports.

Craft and Decor

• Wall Art: Stand-alone cutouts or layered designs for wall hangings, often with nature or abstract themes.
• Silhouettes: Profile portraits or thematic silhouettes (e.g., animals, people, or landscapes).
• Plaques: Personalized name plaques or inspirational quote signs.
• Coasters: Thin wooden coasters with engraved or cutout patterns.
• Bookmarks: Thin, decorative wooden bookmarks with intricate designs.
• Lampshades or Lanterns: Delicate wooden panels for light diffusion with patterned cutouts.

Functional Items

• Keychains: Small, detailed wooden keychains with custom shapes or names.
• Utensil Handles: Custom handles for kitchen tools or knives.
• Plant Stands or Holders: Small decorative stands for potted plants or vases.
• Pen Holders: Desktop organizers with scroll-cut designs.

Specialty Materials (Beyond Wood)

• Plastic Projects: Cutting thin acrylic or plastic sheets for signs, stencils, or decorative pieces.
• Metal Crafts: With the right blade, cutting thin non-ferrous metals (e.g., brass, copper) for jewelry or small art pieces.
• Foam Crafts: Cutting foam for model-making, cosplay props, or packaging inserts.
• Leather Accents: Cutting thin leather for detailed patterns in accessories or decor.

Miscellaneous

• Model Components: Parts for scale models (e.g., architectural models, trains, or ships).
• Musical Instruments: Decorative parts for instruments, like guitar inlays or ukulele soundhole designs.
• Stencils: Reusable stencils for painting or etching on various surfaces.
• Custom Gears: Small wooden or plastic gears for mechanical or decorative purposes.

Tool Review - Harbor Freight Tools - 18 in. Magnetic Tool Holder

If you're looking to bring order to your shop or garage, the Magnetic Tool Holder is a simple yet highly effective solution. This tool organizer is designed to keep your workspace tidy and your tools within easy reach, making it a must-have for DIY enthusiasts, mechanics, and anyone who values a clutter-free environment.

Key Features

• Versatile Storage: This magnetic tool holder is perfect for organizing a wide range of items, from scissors and knives to wrenches and small parts. The strong magnetic strip securely holds tools in place, ensuring they stay put while you work.

• Easy Installation: Mounting is a breeze. You can attach the holder to a wall, workbench, or any flat surface in your garage or shop. It’s a quick setup that delivers instant organization.

• Durable Design: Built with a magnetic strip housed in a sturdy steel U-channel bracket, this tool holder is rugged enough to withstand the demands of a busy shop environment.

• Space-Saving Efficiency: By keeping tools visible and accessible, it clears up valuable workspace and keeps your tools safely out of the way.

My Experience

I’ve installed these magnetic tool holders all over my shop, and they’ve been a game-changer. They excel at holding smaller, lightweight tools. The magnetic grip is reliable, keeping small tools securely in place without slipping.

For heavier tools, the holder performs well as long as the tool has a flat surface for the magnet to latch onto. I’ve used it for pliers and even some medium-sized tools, and it holds up nicely. However, for very heavy or oddly shaped tools, you may need to test the magnet’s strength to ensure a secure hold.

Pros

• Keeps tools organized, visible, and easily accessible

• Simple to mount on various surfaces

• Durable construction suitable for tough shop environments

• Affordable and effective for small to medium tools

Cons

• May struggle with very heavy tools or those without a flat surface

• Magnet strength could vary depending on the tool’s material or weight

Final Verdict

The Magnetic Tool Holder is a fantastic addition to any shop or garage. Its combination of durability, ease of use, and versatility makes it an excellent choice for keeping your tools organized and your workspace efficient. While it’s best suited for lightweight to medium tools with flat surfaces, it’s a reliable and affordable solution for most shop needs. If you’re tired of digging through drawers or cluttered benches, this tool holder is worth every penny.

Rating: 4/5 Stronger magnets would make it a 5/5.
Considering the low cost, I highly recommend these.

 

I Sold My RBI Hawk 220 Scroll Saw - A Little History

RBI Hawk 220 Scroll Saw

If I had the floor space, I might have kept it. It took about three weeks to sell on the Facebook marketplace, and I let it go for $100.00 with some blades and spare parts.

I bought it several years ago, covered with dust and sitting in the back of a barn. I spent well over $100 refurbishing it, and it was my go-to saw for a long time until I purchased a used Excalibur EX-21. It didn't take long before the Hawk was collecting dust. I gave away my old AMT 16-inch saw to a friend, and the Hawk became my backup saw. My EX-21 is my backup, and a Pegas saw is my primary.

While I had my AMT, EX-21, and Hawk scroll saws sitting next to each other, I experimented. I cut the pattern using the same wood and blade type on all three saws. There was very little difference in the way they cut. Surprisingly, the AMT saw produced a smoother cut than the other two. For me, blade changes trumped everything, so the EX-21 was the winner.

The AMT had to go, and I began a search for another use, EX-21. By this time, they didn't make new EX-21 saws anymore, and no one was selling used ones anywhere within a day's drive. They started making them in China, but these seemed to be junk. After over two years of watching for a used saw, I was about ready to pull the trigger on a new Pegas when I accidentally stumbled across a used Pegas in new condition for sale on the Facebook marketplace. How the ad was worded would never show up in a search for scroll saw. It took me two days to get it, but it was worth the trip. The Pegas had been purchased new and never used.

So now I need to clear out enough room for the Pegas bandsaw. 

I cut a lot of projects on this 16 Inch AMT Scroll Saw

My New Pegas Precision Scroll Saw

 

Pegas Precision Scroll Saw

 

My new Pegas saw is up and running. I read the manual and could not find any place where it talked about adjusting the upper arm parallel to the table, as my EX-21 says. I did it anyway, as it was so far off I could see it without measuring.

This is the first saw I have ever had that has the guards in place. There was one on the bottom as well as the top. I removed the top guard because it significantly interfered with installing the blade, and I removed the bottom guard because it banged against the table when the saw was rum at high speed. Removing the lower guard required me to remove the table to get to the screws. I replaced the screws in case they were holding something inside.

While the top was off, I discovered that the thin plastic part of the dust collection was only attached to one side. I made one from a piece of magnetic sheet that I had. After waxing the bottom of the table and everything I could not get to without removing the table, I reinstalled the top and checked all of the alignments.

I did my first cut. I cut some kittens from a 3/4-inch piece of oak. It works great. There is minimal vibration at high speed, and the cuts are smooth.

The Grizzly mobile base that came with the saw will have to go. It adds about 10 inches to the width and gets in the way. One of the wheels is where I want my foot switch to go. Only two wheels are casters, making it more challenging to maneuver in tight spaces. In short, the mobile base takes up to much room.

I'm thrilled with the new Pegas Scroll Saw. 

The Evolution of My Toy Maker's Shop Pegboards

Several versions of the peg board used in my shop are 3/4-inch plywood, 3/4-inch plywood with hardboard backing, lazy susan, and 3/4-MDF with hardboard backing.

 

As a toy maker, I rely on my pegboards for painting and finishing my toys. But over the years, I've learned that not all pegboards are created equal. In this post, I'd like to share my journey of experimenting with different materials and designs to find the perfect pegboard for my needs.

My first attempt at a pegboard was made from thin, narrow wood. While it looked nice, I quickly realized that the holes were spaced too far apart, and the wood needed to be heavier to prevent tipping when loaded with toy parts. So, I switched to 3/4-inch BC plywood and drilled the holes almost all the way through. The plywood worked better, but I still found that the board would tip if I tried to hang anything too heavy. It needed to be broader, heavier, and have deeper holes.

Next, I tried drilling through the plywood and gluing it on a hardboard back. This design provided more support and stability, but I needed a better solution. Eventually, I tried using 3/4-inch MDF and hardboard, my favorite combination. The MDF is flat, heavy, cheap, and easy to work with, making it the perfect material for my pegboard needs.

One of my pegboards is even mounted on a lazy susan so I can spin it around, though I have yet to find this particularly useful in my toy-making process. I plan to try some ideas I have later.

Overall, my journey with pegboards has taught me the importance of experimenting and finding suitable materials and designs for my specific needs. Whether you're a toy maker or any other type of DIY enthusiast, I hope that my experiences can serve as a helpful guide in your pegboard endeavors.

Note: I still use all but the first pegboard I made and have made several others for particular purposes.

Restocking Spiders From The Snazzy Spooks Collection

Wood Toy Spider Cutout On My EX21 Scroll Saw

 Buy One of thes Spiders 

Snazzy Spooks Collection

I made another batch of spiders today. I cut these on my Excalibur EX21 scroll saw using a Pegas #3R  Modified Geometry blade. Quality checks are done throughout the process, and defective spiders are discarded. One spider out of five was discarded this time.

The wood is pine and was prepared by sanding it before I applied the pattern. I print my patterns on a laser printer using Inkscape. I prefer to use 3m 77 adhesive to adhere patterns directly to the wood. The patterns and adhesive are easy to remove with mineral spirits, and there is no damage to the wood surface, as sometimes when I use blue painter's tape. After applying the patterns, I cut the boards into smaller pieces using a miter saw, with one spider per piece. Cutting the patterns apart is optional. I like to work with smaller pieces and find rectangular cutoffs easier to work with later.

Once the adhesive is removed, the spiders are sanded again using a sanding mop, belt sander, and random orbit sander. 

#odinstoyfactory #handmade #woodtoys #madeinusa #madeinamerica

 

The Best Clamp for Scroll Sawing Compound Cuts

 

If you are a scroller, you know how frustrating having your workpiece move while cutting can be. Especially when it comes to scrolling compound cuts, the clamp you use can make all the difference in the world when it comes to the accuracy and precision of your cuts.

After trying various clamps, I discovered that the spring clamp is the best clamp for scroll sawing compound cuts. Not just any spring clamp, but one with a strong spring that can take up the slack as you cut. The larger spring clamps worked best as they stayed in place and aligned the parts.

One of the main advantages of using a spring clamp for scroll sawing is that it will not damage the blade if you accidentally hit the clamp. Many spring clamps are made of plastic composites. If you should hit one of these clamps with a scroll saw blade, the blade would not be damaged.

In conclusion, if you are looking for the best clamp for scroll sawing compound cuts, consider using a spring clamp with a strong spring. Look for larger clamps to stay in place and align your workpiece. Using the right clamp, you can take your scroll sawing skills to the next level and achieve more accurate and precise cuts

Some Thoughts On Buying Your First Scroll Saw

My First Scroll Saw AMT Made In Taiwan Bought New About 1983

Shop Front Page:
https://odinstoyfactory.etsy.com

Stay away from anything that uses pin end blades. Why? Because blade selection will be very limited. My first saw had pined blades, but it only took me a few weeks before I upgraded to use pinless blades.

I used this saw for years until I picked up a use RBI Hawk for $100 that needed a little TLC.

I make a lot of toys with this saw. Cutting fretwork was a challenge because the blade changes took so long. I think it cut as good or better than both of my current saws. With the right blade and hardwood, I could get smooth glass cuts. I only got rid of it after I picked up a used Excalibur EX21 because I stumbled across a video describing how easy it was to do interior cuts. Fast blade change was a game-changer for me. I had recently started selling some of my creations, and time is money. I gave the AMT saw to a friend, and it is still in use today. The only problem I ever had with it was the blower that came with it was junk, but an aquarium pump quickly took care of that. It is the only new saw I ever purchased.

I think a used scroll saw the way to go if they are available. Used scroll saws are rare in my area, but I keep searches running all the time on Crags List and Facebook Market Place just in case something interesting pops up nearby. I some areas, used saws are for sale all the time.

Test it as best you can before you buy, and be prepared to spend a little on the saw after you get it. An older scroll saw that has been sitting for a while might need a little TLC. I spent about $100 on upgrades and replacement parts for my RBI Hawk.

If you can't work on the, saw yourself is the only reason I can think of not buying used. Paying someone to upgrade or repair your saw would negate any savings you get from buying used.

 

#odinstoyfactory #handmade #woodtoys #madeinusa #madeinamerica #tools  #woodworking #scrollsaw

My First Scroll Saw was an AMT 1600

 

AMT 1600 Scroll Saw

My first scroll saw was this AMT 1600 purchased in the early eighties.  It used pin-end blades. I soon discovered when I started cutting fretwork that I needed a saw that uses pinless blades. I was able to purchase a modification kit that let me use pinless blades.  Changing blades and making through cuts was a bit of a chore, but I didn't know any better at the time. The saw cut great and was capable of cutting smooth glass cuts in hardwoods. I made toys, fretwork, and chess pieces using this saw. I gave it away a few years ago after purchasing an Excalibur EX21. 

The blower was net to useless an was replaced with an aquarium pump.

The stand was a Craftsman Universal tool stand I purchased from Sears.

There are many AMT scroll saws for sale used, and they will do quite well for a beginner.

 

Scroll Saw Blade Clamp Alignment

Excalibur EX21 Scroll Saw Top Clamp

It's essential to have both blade clamp set screws lined up perpendicular to one another. Otherwise, you get side-to-side travel in the blade.

• Install and tension a fine-tooth blade.
• Manually move the saw to the top of its stroke.
• Place a metal rule on the table against the right side of the blade.
• Manually move the arms to the bottom of the stroke.
• If the blade moves away from the end of the ruler, the bottom screw needs to be "deeper" in the clamp, or the top needs to be "shallower."
• If the blade pushes the ruler away, the bottom screw needs to be "shallower' or the clamp on the top needs to be "deeper."
• Repeat until there is no difference between the top and bottom of the stroke. I like to start with mine in the center.

With the blade clamps in alignment and the blade square to the table, it is possible to get smooth glassy cuts.

Bandsaw Rooster/Chicken Cut With My Shopsmith Bandsaw Equipped With Carter Guide

The rooster fresh off the saw.

The rooster after a little sanding.

 

I have a Shopsmith bandsaw with Carter Guide (Shopsmith-SHS1) installed. I have had the Carter Guide installed for a while. I Played with it a lot to see what it could do and made a few somewhat simple projects. I have a project planned where I will be cutting some complex reindeer from a 4x4, and I wanted to see just how hard this would be before I decided to accept the commission.

I wanted to see how complicated a cut I could make with this guide and a 1/8-inch blade. I hunted for the most complex 3D pattern I could find and came up with this chicken.

The chicken is cut from a piece of construction-grade 2x4. Not once did I back up or cut any clearance to turn the blade.

Cutting the chicken's wide side was slow, partly due to the fine blade and my inexperience with this sort of cut. It worked quite well. Now I have to glue up some 4x4 blocks and try a reindeer.

Installing Bandsaw Tires On A Shopsmith Bandsaw

Installing Bandsaw Tires On A Shopsmith Bandsaw

 

Installing Bandsaw Tires On A Shopsmith Bandsaw

 

My first set of tires were the orange ones. They stretched and came off. I bought a pair of blue tires, and those worked well for a while and then came off and got chewed up by the blade—my fault. Putting these on was a struggle. Both times it took a couple of hours to get them on, finally.

I purchased another set of the Blue Max belts.

I changed the tires on my bandsaw yesterday for the third time. I finally figured out how to do it. I did not heat the tire or any of that nonsense. I discovered that you have to keep the wheel from moving and hold the belt in place. I have tried every sort of clamp you can imagine, only to have them pop off and go flying across the shop.

It finally dawned on me to try hand screw clamps. Hand screws are made of wood, so no worries about damaging the wheel. You can apply a lot of pressure with these clamps. Not only did they hold the belt very well, but I managed to stretch the tire onto the wheel the first try.

I used spring clamps on the bottom wheel to stop the wheel from moving when I pulled down on the tire. I didn't do this on the top wheel, and it was a bit more complicated.

Removing Rust From A Central Machinery Jointer For Shopsmith Model 1641 Date 1988.11

Label Central  Machinery Jointer For Shopsmith Model 1641 Date 1988.11

 

I purchased an older Shopsmith that came with two SPTs (Special Power Tools) still in their original boxes. A jigsaw and a six-inch jointer. Both were made by Central Machinery in Taiwan to fit the Shopsmith. I had no interest in the jigsaw and sold it immediately.

Central  Machinery Jointer For Shopsmith Still In The Box It Was Shipped In

The jointer box was beaten up pretty bad and showed signs of getting wet, but it was still covered with the thick oils that these tools are shipped from the factory.  New in the box but damaged. One end was sticking out and had some deep corrosion on it, and despite the oils, there was lots of surface rust.

Removing Rust Using A Scotch-Brite Pad And A 1/4-sheet Sander

I have been using steel wool and WD40 for many years to remove corrosion. In the past few years, I have switched to 3M Scotch-Brite pads. When removing rust from large flat surfaces such as this jointer, I use a Scotch-Brite pad attached to a 1/4-sheet sander I keep just for this purpose. The pad fits perfectly on the bottom of my sander. I don't use the sander for anything else.

Central  Machinery Jointer After Removing Rust With A Scotch-Brite Pad and WD40

As soon as the rust is removed, I cleaned up the WD40 with paper towels and mineral spirits. As soon as the mineral spirits has evaporated, I gave it a good waxing with Johnson's Paste Wax to prevent it from rusting.

Pitting And Stains On The End of The Central  Machinery Jointer After Rust Removal

A small amount of pitting and stains remained where the jointer was protruding from the damaged box. However, the pitting was so shallow it will not interfere with the operation of the jointer.

Now I had two Central Machinery Jointers. This one was newer than my original jointer, and I liked how the guard attached much better, so I sold the older jointer.

I do not own a Shopsmith jointer and cannot compare it to the Central Machinery jointer. It works well for me. It is a lot heavier, weighing in at around 100lbs. I would like to have a Shopsmith jointer, but until I can find a bargain on one or can't lift it, the Central Machinery jointer gets the job

Harbor Freight Four Inch Ratcheting Bar Clamp/Spreader

 

Harbor Freight Four Inch Ratcheting Bar Clamp/Spreader

I use a lot of clamps. They are the first clamps of this type sold by Harbor Freight that I like. I make a lot of toys and use many small clamps. Recently I went to Harbor Freight with coupon in hand to pick up a few more of these clamps only to find that they have changed the clamp. 

Harbor Freight Four Inch Ratcheting Bar Clamp/Spreader New Style

There are currently three SKUs listed on their website: 68974, 46805, 62242. The ones I have the most of are SKU 68974. I have only seen only two of them. I went ahead and purchased four of the new ones. I decided that for $0.99 each, I would give them a try.

 

Harbor Freight Four Inch Ratcheting Bar Clamp/Spreader New Style Flashing on the Trigger

 

The new clamps work ok, but the build quality isn't as good. The knob on the side is tiny compared to the older version, and there is flashing on the trigger that my old one does not have. The flashing on the trigger sharp and uncomfortable to squeeze even at the light pressures I use. It feels like it might cut me under the right circumstances. I don't like the smaller knob, but it isn't a deal-breaker as I rarely use it. I removed all the flashing with a sharp knife and smoothed everything down. 

 

 

I used these recently on a small project. The new style clamps worked fine, but I have to wonder about the roughness of the tool. If they let this slide, what else did they let slide?

If I need more clamps, I will be looking for the SKU 68974 clamps. However, unless I have a problem with the newer ones, I will buy them if I need this size clamp. If it breaks, they will replace it.

Toymakers Shop - Cleaning Rust Off Of Castiron Tools

Shopsmith Central Machinery Jointer In Its Original Water Damaged Box

Used tools can be great bargains, but some times the best deals need some elbow grease applied to get them in usable condition. Often they have been neglected for a long time or stored and maintained improperly—simple things like keeping castiron waxed can go a long way to preventing rust and corrosion. 

I recently purchased a Shopsmith for a low price. It was in a storage facility that had no way to test the powerhead. They needed the space cleaned out right away. There were two unidentified. Accessories still in their mangle shipping boxes, with the banding still on them. One of the boxes was very heavy, and I knew from the weight and size of the box that it was a jointer. 

Shopsmith Central Machinery Jointer Label Made In 1987

When I got it home and opened the box, not only was it a jointer, but it was a rare 6-inch Jointer made by Central Machinery for Harbor Freight Tools. It was clear that at some time, water had got into the box, and there was some surface rust and a bit of pitting.

I have a method of cleaning flat castiron surfaces that works well for me. I use an abrasive pad and WD40 to remove the rust. I used to restore bicycles that I would get for free for my kids and some of the neighborhood kids. While working on bicycles, I learned that WD40 and 0000 steel wool would quickly remove rust and corrosion on chrome parts and spokes. 

Shopsmith Central Machinery Jointer With Sander Used With Scotch Brite Pad To Remove Rust

Today I don't use steel wool for rust removal. It is messy, and I don't like dealing with all of the metal bits. Steel wood is also a fire hazard. I have replaced steel wool with Scotch Brite pads. Scotch Brite pads come in all sorts of grits, but for this, I used the green pads you might have in your kitchen. 

After removing the fence, I sprayed a liberal coat of WD40 on the jointer and let it sit for a few minutes. Next, I wipe it with a paper towel removing all the loose rust and any of the grease that these tools have on them when shipped. You may need to do this a couple of times.

Now for the good part. I coat the surface of the jointer with WD40 and using a new Scotch Brite pad and a cheap 1/4-sheet sander I remove the rust. On my sander, I don't need to attach the Scotch Brite pad to the sander; it stays in place under the sander just fine unless I got too far over the edge. Once the WD40 turns into a nasty brown sludge, I wiped everything down and repeat the process until you are happy with the result. This process will not remove pitting.

Shopsmith Central Machinery Jointer Pitting Is Not Removed. This is where the water got in.

When you are done clean off the WD40 with mineral spirits or your favorite degreaser, once the surface is clean and dry, give it a good coating of Johnsons Paste Wax.

Shopsmith Central Machinery Jointer Rust Removed and Waxed With Johnson's Paste Wax

I already had a 6-inch Central Machinery Jointer that I purchased new from Harbor Freight. I sold one of them to someone who wanted it and was willing to pay the shipping for a 120-pound crate. The other box contained a Central Machinery Jig Saw complete and never opened. I sold it cheap to someone local. I was going to give it away, but when I met the person, they insisted on paying for it. In the end, I have another Shopsmith with a few missing accessories for a cost of $25.

My First Scroll Saw - Beginners Scroll Saw

AMT Scroll Saw

This was my first scroll saw and the only one I used for forty plus years. I cut a lot of projects on this saw. I purchased it new direct from AMT. It is solid cast iron, which I am sure helped a lot with the vibration.

The stand I purchased from Sears after the first attempt at cutting. At the time, I did all my work outdoors, and it was evident that using a scroll saw sitting on some 2x4s stretched across sawhorses wasn't going to hack it.

I made some simple projects from one of Patrick Spielman's books and learned to use the saw cutting out little animals pallet wood.  Forty years later, my grandson plays with these. I still make them using small bits of wood leftover from other projects.

Handmade Wooden Toys Elephant Puzzle and Animal Cut Outs Made With My Scroll Saw

I soon discovered that pin end blades were inadequate for most scroll saw work.  Fortunately, there was a kit available for my saw that let me use pin end blades. I cut lots of fretwork patterns, one I could use pinless blades, and the blade selection was much better.

Scroll Saw Layered Wood Toy Animals, Cat, Giraffe, Puppy, Cat, I cut with my AMT

Many years later, I bought an old RBI Hawk two speed saw cheap and refurbished it.  I used this saw for a couple of years while the AMT collected dust. It didn't cut better, but the blade changes were much improved, and I liked being able to cut standing up.

Fretwork Rose I made from oak reclaimed from pallets using my AMT scroll saw

Then one day I saw a short video demonstrating how easy it was to change the blades on an Excalibur EX21 scroll saw. I wanted one badly but not for $800. I got lucky, and a used EX21 showed up on my local Craigslist.

Fretwork Grape Vine Shelf  - One of many fretwork projects I cut with my AMT scroll saw.

I surely didn't need three scroll saws, so I gave the AMT to a friend, but only after doing a side by side comparison where I cut the same project on all three saws. EX21 wins. Blade changes trumped and advantage the other saws had. As far as cut quality goes, I could not tell a diffrence.

The best Countersink I Have Ever Used - KEO 53512 Cobalt Steel Single-End Countersink

KEO 53512 Cobalt Steel Single-End Countersink, TiN Coated, 82 Degree Point Angle, Round Shank, 5/16" Shank Diameter, 1/2" Body Diameter

This isn't a tool I use much for toy making, but I use it a lot for making jigs and special purpose fences. I have tried lots of countersinks for cheap ones from Harbor Freight to some expensive Bosch brand countersinks. Some cut better than others, but they all chattered. After trying one of these, the others went into the recycle bin.

In some materials, this countersink will cut shavings not chips. You will get smooth, round countersinks. After using this one for a while, the others went into the recycle bin.

I don't use it for metal, but you can use it for that. From the seller, "Cobalt steel tools are similar to high-speed steel, but with more cobalt for improved performance when cutting harder metals such as stainless steel or nickel alloy."

The KEO 53512 Cobalt Steel Single-End Countersink costs about twenty dollars on Amazon.