Notes on Toy Finishes

A quart can of Zinsser Bullseye Shellac and several airbrush bottles used for finishing toys are visible in the background.

You can see some of my toys here.

 I am not an expert in finishing. These notes are based on my years of learning.

All paints and finishes sold in the US are considered nontoxic when fully cured. When something is dry, you can touch it without getting paint on your fingers. But when it's cured, all the volatiles have dissipated, and the finish has hardened. A finish can take hours, days, or weeks to cure fully.

Nontoxic doesn't mean you should eat it or that there is no long-term harm if you do. It simply means it won't send you to the emergency room if ingested.

For an easy, clear finish, you can use butcher block conditioner, a combination of mineral oil and wax. Many toy makers use a mineral oil and beeswax blend for a simple, fast finish. However, there is no cure time, and it is not a durable finish.

Polyurethane is an excellent finish that adds a slight amber tint and enhances the wood grain. However, it takes a long time to cure, typically two weeks or more, and requires sanding between coats. I do not recommend using water-based polyurethane.

I recommend acrylic paints for color. Most craft paint brands will work well for painting toys. I sometimes use house paint for certain projects. Flat colors dry fast, with a cure time of 12-24 hours for me. Multiple coats are often needed for some colors, with light sanding between coats. Some colors, such as yellow and orange, require a white base and take multiple coats. You can get acrylic paint in gloss; I rarely use it because the cure time is much longer than flat paint.

To add sheen to flat paint, I apply paste wax and buff it with a soft cotton cloth. For a glossy finish, I use Pledge Revive It Floor Gloss on top, which is clear acrylic. Many clear coatings are also available in aerosol cans, but I don't use these.

Shellac is another excellent finish option. It cures very fast and allows for recoating within minutes. It has been used for centuries to finish furniture and is approved for food use. Shellac can be tricky to work with and requires Scotch Brite abrasive pads or 0000 steel wool instead of sandpaper. Power sanders will melt the shellac and gum up your sandpaper. Shellac can be applied by spraying, brushing, or dipping.


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