Airbrushing for Toy Making: Which air compressor do I use?

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Any compressor can work for airbrushing if you can regulate the pressure and filter the air. Airbrush manufacturers do not make their own compressors; if they sell them, these are typically rebranded products from China. I have used both a standard two-stage tank compressor and a Harbor Freight model. Someone I know once painted a show car in their driveway using a spare tire and a valve stem adapter.

The Harbor Freight compressor is a reliable and cost-effective option. It is quiet and portable, and it even comes with an airbrush. While I have no personal experience with the Harbor Freight airbrush, I have heard mixed reviews about its performance. It might work if you plan to spray only paints specifically designed for airbrushes. However, I often spray cheap acrylics, craft paints, and even house paint, which can have larger pigments that may clog smaller airbrushes. Remember that all paints are different; even different colors from the same brand can spray differently.

Airbrushing takes practice to master. It is not an instant solution, but with enough practice, excellent results are achievable.

What size needle do you use in your airbrush for painting toys?

Badger 155 Airbrushes

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Selecting the correct needle is crucial for achieving optimal results when airbrushing toys. Needle size directly influences paint flow and detailing precision.

I recommend a larger needle size, such as 0.5mm or 0.7mm, for general spraying. These sizes ensure smooth paint flow and ease of coverage of large areas. Airbrush needles are labeled Fine (F), Medium (M), or Heavy (H). For general spraying, use a Heavy (H) needle.

Smaller needle sizes are ideal for intricate work, but they often require premium airbrush paints to avoid clogging. I have not found smaller sizes necessary for toy painting, but experimenting may help you identify your ideal setup.

The airbrush model also impacts ideal needle size. I favor the Badger 155 Anthem, though there are many alternatives. Testing various airbrushes and needle sizes ensures you find the optimal combination for your projects.

I suggest a larger needle size, like 0.5mm or 0.7mm, for airbrushing toys. Larger needles enable smooth paint flow with craft paints and expedite coverage of broad areas. For detailed work, smaller needles may be needed, possibly with high-quality airbrush paints for a flawless finish. Testing different sizes and models will help you find your best match.

Handmade Wood Toy Cars and Trucks: Hot Rods and Monster Trucks

A collection of handmade wooden toy cars and trucks finished with amber shellac and trimmed with various bold colors. Each is carefully crafted by hand using a scroll saw, resulting in unique and beautifully detailed toys.

 

 

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For Hot Rods Click Here

These aren't your average store-bought toys - each is carefully crafted by hand using a scroll saw and finished with amber shellac.

The toy monster trucks in this collection are based on the pickup truck from the Play Pal collection and are cut from 2x4 pine. The cars are from the Hot Rod Freaky Ford Collection, featuring four 1932 Ford sedans, one 1932 Deuce Coupe, and four hot rods based on the 1927 Ford T-Coupe. I carefully cut the bodies for these cars from 2x4 stock using a scroll saw.

Why did I choose a scroll saw over a bandsaw for this project? While a bandsaw can undoubtedly get the job done, a scrollsaw cuts slower but produces a much better cut that requires much less sanding. As a woodworker, I would much rather spend my time cutting than sanding, and the scroll saw allows me to do just that. Plus, a scroll saw can make inside cuts like the windows in this car collection and make much tighter turns.

Overall, this batch of handmade wood toy cars and trucks was a labor of love, and the results are genuinely one-of-a-kind. The final touches of black, metallic purple, metallic emerald green, hot pink, and metallic sapphire blue acrylic paint make these toys stand out.

The Evolution of My Toy Maker's Shop Pegboards

Several versions of the peg board used in my shop are 3/4-inch plywood, 3/4-inch plywood with hardboard backing, lazy Susan, and 3/4-MDF with hardboard backing.

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As a toy maker, I rely on my pegboards for painting and finishing my toys. But over the years, I've learned that not all pegboards are created equal. In this post, I'd like to share my journey of experimenting with different materials and designs to find the perfect pegboard for my needs.

My first attempt at a pegboard was made from thin, narrow wood. While it looked nice, I quickly realized that the holes were spaced too far apart, and the wood needed to be heavier to prevent tipping when loaded with toy parts. So, I switched to 3/4-inch BC plywood and drilled the holes almost all the way through. The plywood worked better, but I still found that the board would tip if I tried to hang anything too heavy. It needed to be broader, heavier, and have deeper holes.

Next, I tried drilling through the plywood and gluing it to a hardboard back. This design provided more support and stability, but I needed a better solution. Eventually, I tried using 3/4-inch MDF and hardboard, my favorite combination. The MDF is flat, heavy, cheap, and easy to work with, making it the perfect material for my pegboard needs.

One of my pegboards is even mounted on a lazy susan so I can spin it around, though I have yet to find this particularly useful in my toy-making process. I plan to try some ideas I have later.

Overall, my journey with pegboards has taught me the importance of experimenting and finding suitable materials and designs for my specific needs. Whether you're a toy maker or another type of DIY enthusiast, I hope my experiences can serve as a helpful guide for your pegboard endeavors.

Note: I still use all but the first pegboard I made, and I have made several others for specific purposes.

Resawing Ornaments From Thick Stock An Alternative To Stack Cutting On The Scroll Saw

 

Resawing Ornaments From Thick Stock An Alternative To Stack Cutting

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Resawing is a woodworking technique that involves cutting a piece of wood along its grain to create two or more thinner pieces. It is often used to create veneers or thinner pieces of wood for projects such as furniture making or ornamental work.

One alternative to stack cutting is to cut thick stock and resaw the cut piece to the desired thickness. Resawing can be more efficient and cost-effective, especially if you only need to cut a few pieces.

In the case of resawing ornaments from thick stock, the process involves cutting a single piece of wood into several thinner pieces that can then be sanded on a belt sander to remove undesired saw marks.

To successfully resaw ornaments from thick stock, cut slowly and carefully to avoid damaging the saw blade, the wood, or your fingers. It may also be helpful to use a guide or jig to help keep the wood in place and prevent it from spinning as it is being cut.

While resawing ornaments from thick stock can be useful, it may only be suitable for some ornament designs, particularly those with round or curved shapes. In these cases, stack cutting or other methods may be more appropriate.

Overall, resawing ornaments from thick stock can be a valuable alternative to stack cutting, especially for those who need to cut only a few ornaments and want a more efficient, cost-effective method. Just be sure to cut slowly and carefully, and use a guide or jig if needed to help keep the wood in place and prevent it from spinning.

Testing My EX-21 Scroll Saw Aftter Aome Major Repairs

Christmas Tree Ornament Cut From Reclaimed Plywood

Ornaments In My Shop

I recently had some significant problems with my scroll saw. I would replace the motor and the control board. The motor would randomly stop and finally quit for good. Leading up to this, it vibrated more and would break a #2 blade within seconds of starting the saw. I have been testing with  #2 blade since the repair.

These are cut from a piece of 1/8-inch thick reclaimed plywood I had on hand, with the idea that if they worked out OK, I would add them to my shop. That part could have worked out better. Looking closely at the photos, you can see several places where the veneer is coming off. And a few spots where the glue from the next layer is showing through.

They are dipped in a 50/50 solution of clear shellac as an experiment to see how well this works.

 

 

Wood Miniature Birdhouse Ornament, Handmade From Reclaimed Wood and Finished With Mineral Oil and Beeswax Collectable Christmas Tree Decor 912020017

 

Wood Miniature Birdhouse Ornament, Handmade From Reclaimed Wood and Finished With Mineral Oil and Beeswax Collectable Christmas Tree Decor

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Handcrafted in my shop from reclaimed wood using traditional tools, this miniature birdhouse ornament is compound-cut in three dimensions on a scroll saw. Finished with a custom hot-applied blend of mineral oils and waxes for durability, it could become a family heirloom. Explore many birdhouse styles in my shop by following the link.

• Collectible Birdhouse Ornaments
• All my Christmas Listings
• My Shop Front Page

Each ornament I make is one-of-a-kind, handcrafted from natural wood and wood products. This means no two pieces are ever exactly the same. The item you receive will be unique and may differ from the listing photos. Wood thickness may also vary slightly from the stated size.

 

 

 

 

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