The Legacy of Patrick Spielman: Remembering a Woodworking Legend

Patrick Spielman

 

Patrick Spielman was an American author and woodworker who left an indelible mark on the woodworking community. Known for his creative designs, insightful instructions, and expertise in woodworking, he inspired a generation of woodworkers through his books and articles.

Early Life and Education

Patrick Spielman was born in St. Paul, Minnesota, on February 27, 1938. He grew up in the state and showed an early interest in woodworking. His passion for the craft led him to pursue a degree in Industrial Education at the University of Minnesota. After graduation, he worked as a high school woodworking teacher and later as a college instructor.

Career as a Woodworker and Author

Spielman's career as a woodworker took off in the 1970s when he began writing for woodworking magazines such as Woodsmith, Fine Woodworking, and Popular Woodworking. He wrote articles on various woodworking topics, from tool reviews to techniques for creating intricate designs.

In the 1980s, Spielman started publishing his books on woodworking, beginning with "The New Router Handbook" in 1983. He wrote over 65 books, many of which became bestsellers. His books covered various topics, including scroll sawing, pyrography, carving, and routing.

Spielman's books were known for their clear, concise instructions and creative designs. He was a master of the scroll saw, and many of his designs for fretwork and intarsia became classics in the woodworking community. He was also known for his innovative router use, creating intricate designs and patterns using this versatile tool.

In addition to his books, Spielman also produced instructional videos and gave seminars and workshops on woodworking. He was a frequent guest on television shows such as The Woodwright's Shop and Home and Garden Television.

Legacy

Patrick Spielman passed away on October 11, 2004, at the age of 66. However, his legacy in the woodworking community lives on. His books and articles continue to be popular among woodworkers of all skill levels, and his designs have inspired countless woodworkers to take up the craft.

Spielman's contributions to woodworking were recognized by the National Woodworking Hall of Fame, which inducted him in 1995. He was also a founding member of the Woodworkers' Guild of America and was president from 1995 to 1998.

Conclusion

Patrick Spielman was a true pioneer in the world of woodworking. His books and articles helped to popularize the craft and inspire a new generation of woodworkers. His legacy lives on, and his designs continue to be admired and emulated by worldwide woodworkers. For those interested in woodworking, Patrick Spielman's work is a must-read.

Patrick Spielman authored over 65 books on woodworking during his career. Here is a comprehensive list of his books, in chronological order:

1. The New Router Handbook (1983)
2. Scroll Saw Handbook (1984)
3. Creative Scroll Saw Segmentation (1985)
4. Pyrography Handbook (1986)
5. Intarsia: Artistry in Wood (1986)
6. Victorian Gingerbread: Patterns and Techniques (1987)
7. Puzzles and Games in Wood (1987)
8. Classic Carving Patterns (1988)
9. Relief Carving Workshop (1988)
10. Scroll Saw Puzzle Patterns (1989)
11. Wildlife Carving in Relief (1989)
12. North American Wildlife Patterns for the Scroll Saw (1990)
13. Creative Scroll Saw Fretwork Patterns (1991)
14. Celtic Design: Knotwork, The Secret Method of the Scribes (1992)
15. Wildlife Carving in Wood (1992)
16. Wooden Puzzles: 31 Favorite Projects and Patterns (1992)
17. Mastering Woodworking Machines (1993)
18. The Router Book (1993)
19. Classic Carving Projects (1993)
20. Woodcarving Techniques & Projects (1993)
21. The Art of Intarsia: Projects & Patterns (1994)
22. Whirligigs & Weathervanes: A Celebration of Wind Gadgets With Dozens of Creative Projects to Make (1994)
23. Intarsia Woodworking for Beginners: Skill-Building Lessons for Creating Beautiful Wood Mosaics (1995)
24. Decorative Woodcarving: The Complete Course (1995)
25. Making Wooden Baskets on Your Scroll Saw (1996)
26. Outdoor Wood Projects: 24 Projects You Can Build in a Weekend (1996)
27. Wildlife Carving in Relief, Second Edition Revised and Expanded (1996)
28. Pyrography Workbook: A Complete Guide to the Art of Woodburning (1997)
29. The Big Book of Weekend Woodworking: 150 Easy Projects (1998)
30. The Big Book of Wooden Clocks: 29 Favorite Projects & Patterns (1998)
31. The Ultimate Scroll Saw Handbook (1998)
32. Scroll Saw Country Patterns (1998)
33. Creative Scroll Saw Ornament Patterns (1998)
34. Making Wooden Chess Sets: 15 One-of-a-Kind Designs for the Scroll Saw (1999)
35. The Weekend Crafter: Woodcarving: 20 Great Projects for Beginners & Weekend Carvers (1999)
36. Wildlife Portraits in Wood: 30 Patterns to Capture the Beauty of Nature (1999)
37. Scroll Saw Picture Frames: 35 Designs (1999)
38. Wildlife Carving in Relief, Third Edition: Revised and Expanded (2000)
39. 300 Christian & Inspirational Patterns for Scroll Saw Woodworking (2000)
40. Making Wooden Gear Clocks (2000)
41. Wooden Bowls from the Scroll Saw: 28 Useful & Surprisingly Easy-to-Make Projects (2000)
42. Artistic Intarsia Projects: Patterns & Pieces for 15 Beautiful Designs (2001)
43. Wooden Chess Sets You Can Make: 9 Complete Designs for the Scroll Saw (2001)
44. Scroll Saw Holiday Puzzles: 27 Seasonal Patterns for Christmas and Other Holiday Scrolling (2001)
45. The Art of Fine Woodturning: Projects & Inspiration for Every Turner (2001)
46. Scroll sawing for Woodworkers (2002)
47. Wildlife Carving in Relief, Fourth Edition: Revised and Expanded (2002)

Patrick Spielman wrote hundreds of articles for various woodworking magazines during his career. Here is a list of some of his articles, organized by publication:

Better Homes and Gardens WOOD Magazine:

• "Tablesaw Essentials," January 2001
• "Router Essentials," May 2001
• "Jigs and Fixtures," August 2001
• "Band Saw Essentials," October 2001
• "Drill Press Essentials," January 2002
• "Lathe Essentials," March 2002
• "Portable Power Tools," May 2002
• "Shop-Made Machines," July 2002
• "Router Jigs and Fixtures," September 2002
• "Tablesaw Jigs and Fixtures," November 2002
• "Scroll Saw Essentials," January 2003
• "Finishing Essentials," March 2003
• "Dust Control," May 2003

Popular Woodworking Magazine:

• "Designing a Workbench," October 1992
• "The Sawstop Story," October 2003
• "The New American Woodshop: Meet Scott Phillips," October 2003
• "The Incredible Shrinking Shop," December 2003
• "The Shop of the Future," February 2004
• "The Rebirth of Wooden Planes," August 2004
• "The Secrets of French Polishing," October 2004
• "The All-American Router Table," December 2004
• "The Ultimate Sawhorse," February 2005
• "Understanding Saw Blades," April 2005
• "The Fine Art of Bandsaw Boxes," August 2005
• "Router Table Essentials," October 2005
• "The Secret Life of Drawers," December 2005
• "The Incredible Folding Bench," February 2006
• "Coping with Coping Saws," April 2006
• "The Ultimate Router Table Revisited," June 2006
• "Miter Saw Station Essentials," August 2006
• "The All-American Bookcase," October 2006
• "The Perfect Workbench," December 2006

Woodworker's Journal:

• "Portable Power Tools," October 2001
• "Mastering Miter Saws," June 2003
• "Woodworking With Plywood," February 2004
• "Mastering the Router Table," June 2004
• "All About Woodworking Glue," February 2005
• "Tablesaw Techniques," August 2005
• "Mastering Wood Turning," February 2006
• "The Power of the Lathe," October 2006

These are just a few examples of Patrick Spielman's magazine articles. He also contributed to several other publications, including Woodsmith, American Woodworker, and Fine Woodworking.

 

Norm Marshal cat T-Model

Norm Marshall Model T car (Tin Lizzy) I made More Than Forty Years Ago

 

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If you're looking for a unique and handmade gift for a child or a car enthusiast, look no further than a Norm Marshall T-Model wooden car. These beautiful and intricate cars are sure to delight anyone who receives one.

Norm Marshall was an active woodworker who designed and built wooden toys from 1974 until he died in 1982. He wrote a book, The Great Book of Wooden Toys, which contains detailed instructions and step-by-step instructions on how to build and play with any wooden toy. The book is available in paperback and hardcover and includes helpful tips and tricks for making the perfect wooden toy.

I made several of these cars more than forty years ago and have kept them all these years. I've also made many more to give as gifts or to sell.

You'll need a few tools to make a Norm Marshall T-Model car. I used my Shopsmith with a bandsaw and belt sander. While trying to remember if I used a scroll saw when I made mine, I did have one, and I've used it for many other woodworking projects over the years. If I made a Norm Marshall toy today, I would use a scroll saw. You could build these toys with handheld power tools or hand tools.

One thing to remember is that making a wooden car like this requires some skill and patience. You'll need to be able to cut precise shapes and pieces out of wood and assemble them carefully to create the finished product. But with practice and perseverance, anyone can learn to make these delightful toys.

In conclusion, a handmade wooden car like the Norm Marshall T-Model is a wonderful gift for anyone who appreciates classic toys and beautiful craftsmanship. Whether you make one yourself or buy one from a skilled toymaker, it's sure to be a treasured possession for years to come. So why not try your hand at making one today?

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Painting Handmade Wood Toys: Tips and Considerations for Using Acrylic Paint

Handmade Wood Toy Cars Hot Rod Freaky Fords Being Painted With Acrylic Baby Blue Paint

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Painting handmade wood toys can be a fun and creative way to add color and personality to your creations. While many types of paints exist, acrylic paints are often favored due to their versatility and ease of use. This blog post will discuss some tips and considerations when using acrylic paint to paint handmade wood toys, explicitly focusing on drying time vs. cure time.

First, let's briefly review the difference between drying and cure times. Drying time refers to the amount of time it takes for the solvent in the paint (in the case of acrylics, water) to evaporate, leaving behind a dry paint film. Curing and drying are usually measured in hours or days and vary depending on factors such as the thickness of the paint layer, the humidity and temperature of the environment, and the type of surface being painted on. Cure time, however, refers to the time it takes for the paint to harden and fully reach its maximum durability and adhesion. Depending on the same factors as drying time, this can take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks.

When painting handmade wood toys with acrylic paint, it is essential to keep both drying and cure time in mind. Here are some tips to help ensure a successful paint job:

1. Prepare the surface: Before painting, ensure the wood surface is clean and free of dust or debris. Use sandpaper to smooth out any rough spots or splinters. Preparation is vital to a good finish.
   
2. Use a primer: Primer and the decision to use it is generally optional and depends on the paint you are using. In some cases,  applying a coat of primer can help the paint adhere better to the wood surface and prevent it from soaking into the grain. I usually want my paint to soak into the grain and rarely use primers.
3. Thin coats: When applying the paint, use thin coats rather than thick ones. Thick coats can take longer to dry and cure and may also be more prone to cracking or peeling. If you need to apply a second coat, wait until the first coat is fully dry. Acrylics need to be bone dry before sanding, and you need to sand between each coat to get a smooth finish. Sanding between coats of paint is especially important if your final coat is a gloss finish.
4. Allow for drying time: It is essential to allow each coat of paint to dry thoroughly before applying another coat or handling the toy. Drying can take anywhere from a few hours to a day or more, depending on the thickness of the coat and the humidity and temperature of the environment. I generally allow acrylic paints to dry overnight (12 or more hours) between coats. The paint needs to be bone dry before sanding. If the paint gums up your sandpaper it isn't dry enough.
5. Allow for cure time: While the paint may feel dry to the touch after a few hours, it is essential to allow for sufficient cure time before handling the toy or exposing it to moisture. Curing can take several days to a few weeks, depending on the same factors as drying time.      In my experience, flat paints dry and cure much faster than satin or gloss paint. I like to let my painted toys rest for several days.
6. Consider a sealant: Once the paint is fully cured, you may want to apply a sealant to protect the paint and the wood surface. Again, make sure to choose a sealant suitable for wood and acrylic paint. Clear acrylics can be used for this purpose, and clear shellac will bond to just about any surface. This step is entirely unnecessary. I only apply a top coat to change the look of the toy. For example, you are applying a clear gloss acrylic to a toy painted with flat paint.

In summary, painting handmade wood toys with acrylic paint can be fun and rewarding, but it is essential to keep drying and cure time in mind. You can ensure a successful paint job by following these tips and allowing for sufficient drying and cure time.

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The Truth About Labels on Finished Containers: Why They Can Lie and What You Can Do About It

Handmade Wood Toy Cars and Trucks Finished With Shellac Acrylic Paint And Satin Polyurethane

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If you're a woodworking enthusiast, you're likely familiar with tung oil. Tung oil is a popular finish for wooden objects because it provides a durable, water-resistant, and natural-looking finish. However, not all containers labeled "tung oil" contain tung oil. Some finishes labeled as oil-based may not have any oil in them at all. So why do labels on finished containers lie, and what can you do to ensure you get the desired product?

One reason labels on finished containers can be misleading is due to the lack of regulation in the industry. Unlike food and drug products, which must meet strict labeling standards, there are no guidelines for labeling finishes. Manufacturers can include whatever information they choose on the label, even if it's inaccurate. A finish labeled "tung oil" may only contain a small percentage of tung oil or none.

Another reason labels can be misleading is due to marketing tactics. Using buzzwords like "natural" or "organic" can make a product more appealing to consumers, even if those terms don't accurately reflect the product's composition. For example, a finish labeled as "natural tung oil" may contain other ingredients like mineral spirits or synthetic resins that are not natural at all.

So, what can you do to ensure you get the desired product? One option is to research the brand and product before making a purchase. Look for reviews from other woodworkers or consult with experts to determine which brands are known for their quality and transparency. Additionally, you can look for products certified by third-party organizations, like the Forest Stewardship Council or the Sustainable Forestry Initiative, which ensure that the product meets specific environmental and social standards.

Another option is to make your finishes from natural ingredients. This way, you know what's in the product and can tailor it to your needs. Recipes for homemade finishes are readily available online, and many use simple ingredients like beeswax, linseed oil, or shellac.

In conclusion, labels on finished containers can be misleading, and just because a label says "tung oil" or "oil-based" doesn't necessarily mean that's what's in the can. By researching, looking for third-party certifications, or making your finishes, you can ensure that you get the desired product and avoid any potential disappointments.

Choosing the Right Finish for Wooden Toys: Finishing Toys With Polyurethane A Toymaker's Perspective

Handmade Wood Toy Monster Truck Made From Oak Poplar and Birch Hardwoods and Finished with Satin Polyurethane, Amber Shellac, and Metallic Saphire Blu Acrylic Paint

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As a toymaker, I understand that choosing the right finish for wooden toys is crucial to ensuring their longevity and beauty. Each finish has unique qualities and properties that can enhance the natural beauty of the wood while protecting against wear and tear.

One finish that I often use is satin polyurethane. This finish is incredibly durable and repels water better than most other finishes. Moreover, it adds an eye-catching glow to the wood grain. However, it's important to note that I use the traditional solvent-based polyurethane, not the water-based version, which tends to be less durable and transparent.

Polyurethane is an excellent option for finishing wooden toys because it can withstand heavy use and protects against wear and tear. However, it can take longer to cure than other finishes, so I always need to make sure I have enough time for it to dry and cure properly.

Ultimately, the choice of finish depends on the specific needs of the toy and the look I want to achieve. I often opt for satin polyurethane when I want a durable and visually stunning finish. It is particularly useful for highlighting the wood grain and adding a natural sheen to the toy.

However, other finishes, such as oil and wax, can be great options depending on the desired effect. Oil finishes are ideal for bringing out the wood's natural color and grain, while wax finishes add a beautiful sheen and a protective layer to the wood.

In conclusion, as a toymaker, I've learned that selecting the right finish for wooden toys is crucial in ensuring their longevity and beauty. Each finish has unique qualities and properties, and the choice ultimately depends on the specific needs of the toy and the desired look. While satin polyurethane is my go-to finish for many of my toys, it's essential to explore all the options and choose the one that works best for each project.

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Dry vs. Cure: Understanding the Difference in Coatings and Finishes

 

Toy Car Wheels Finished With Fully Cured Shellac and Ready To Be Mounted

 

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Dry and cure are two terms commonly used in the context of coatings and finishes. While these terms are often used interchangeably, they refer to two different processes.

Dry refers to the point at which a coating or finish no longer feels tacky or sticky to the touch. When a finish is dry, the solvents or water in the coating have evaporated, leaving behind a film on the surface. However, just because a finish is dry does not necessarily mean it has cured.

Cure refers to the process by which a coating or finish reaches its maximum hardness and durability. This process can take longer than simply drying, involving chemical reactions between the molecules in the coating or finish. During curing, the finish may change color or texture as it hardens and becomes more durable.

Generally, the time it takes for a coating or finish to dry is much shorter than the time it takes to cure. While a finish may feel dry to the touch within a few hours, it may take several days or weeks to cure fully. It is essential to follow the manufacturer's instructions regarding drying and curing times to ensure that the finish reaches its maximum hardness and durability.

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How Temperature and Humidity Affect Finish Cure Times

 

Wheels For A Toy Car Curing After A Heavy Coat Of Amber Shellac

 

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Temperature and humidity are two important factors that can significantly affect the curing process of finishes. The curing process is the time it takes for a finish to completely dry and harden, and it is essential for achieving a durable and long-lasting finish. This blog post will discuss how temperature and humidity can affect finish cure times.

Temperature

Temperature plays a critical role in the curing process of finishes. Warmer temperatures will accelerate the curing process, while colder temperatures will slow it down. This is because the chemical reactions during the curing process are temperature-dependent.

When the temperature is too low, the curing process will take longer and may not even occur. Low temperatures can cause the solvents in the finish to evaporate too slowly, leading to a gummy or sticky finish. On the other hand, high temperatures can cause the finish to cure too quickly, leading to cracking, checking, and other defects.

The ideal temperature for curing finishes is typically between 65°F and 75°F. This temperature range allows the solvents to evaporate at an appropriate rate while allowing the finish to cure fully and develop a durable and long-lasting finish.

Humidity

Humidity is another important factor that can affect the curing process of finishes. Humidity is the amount of moisture present in the air, and it can significantly impact how quickly finishes dry and cure.

High humidity can slow down the curing process, as it can prevent the solvents in the finish from evaporating as quickly. This can lead to a finish that remains tacky or sticky for an extended period. On the other hand, low humidity can cause the finish to dry too quickly, resulting in a brittle finish and prone to cracking.

The ideal humidity for curing finishes is typically between 40% and 60%. This humidity range allows the solvents in the finish to evaporate at an appropriate rate while providing enough moisture to prevent the finish from becoming too brittle or prone to cracking.

Conclusion

In conclusion, temperature and humidity are two important factors that can significantly affect the curing process of finishes. To achieve the best results, paying attention to these factors and ensuring that the temperature and humidity levels are within the recommended range for the type of finish being used is essential. By doing so, you can achieve a durable and long-lasting finish that will look great for years.

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