Odin's Toy Factory

You can see some of my toys here.  I am not an expert in finishing. These notes are based on my years of learning. All paints and finishes sold in the US are considered nontoxic when fully cured. When something is dry, you can touch it without getting paint on your fingers. But when it's cured, all the volatiles have dissipated, and the finish has hardened. A finish can take hours, days, or weeks to cure fully. Nontoxic doesn't mean you should eat it or that there is no long-term harm if you do. It simply means it won't send you to the emergency room if ingested. For an easy, clear finish, you can use butcher block conditioner, a combination of mineral oil and wax. Many toy makers use a mineral oil and beeswax blend for a simple, fast finish. However, there is no cure time, and it is not a durable finish. Polyurethane is an excellent finish that adds a slight amber tint and enhances the wood grain. However, it takes a long time to cure, typically two weeks or more, and requ...

Klingspor Sanding Mop Mounted On A Drill Press   See my shop here. Shopsmith 6" Belt Sander  - Useful for curved edges and flat surfaces that I want to remove material quickly. The best tool I have for sanding wheels to size. Shopsmith Disc Sander - Sometimes used for making wheels. Although this is not a powered operation, these are use full for sanding small flat parts. Delta 1" belt sander  - It does a great job on outside edges and can be used for some inside curves. I also have the  Shopsmith  version, which does the same thing and lets me do inside sanding.  Klingspor Sanding Mop  - Expensive, but worth the cost. Removes most fuzzies and leaves a silky smooth surface. Klingspor Mac Mop  - Similar to a sanding mop but a bit more aggressive.  Ridgid Spindle Sander  - Great for sanding inside curves as small as a 1/2 inch radius. It also has an oscillating belt sander.  Random Orbital Sanders  - I use these for sanding flat ...

Handmade Wooden Car Carrier Puzzle Truck Under A Christmas Tree  Click here to order. I make wooden toy car carriers and three cars in my workshop using traditional tools. Each piece is finished by hand with clear shellac, and the wheels are covered with non-marring amber shellac and blue acrylic paint. All the materials I use are safe and not harmful. These items are handmade using natural wood and wood products. They are unique and might look different from the pictures. The wood's thickness may also vary slightly. Please note that the differences in wood grain, color, and knots make each piece unique and add to its character. These variations should be expected and are not defects. If you have any concerns about the variations or want a specific look or size, please contact me before placing your order. These items are made in Tallahassee, Florida, USA.I craft this wooden toy car carrier and three cars in my toymaker's shop, using traditional woodworking tools and techniques...

  My Dinosaur Collection From Steve Good Blog Post Edited grammer and punctuation, https://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2024/05/welcome-gnome-scroll-saw-pattern.html Another similar question concerns setting the speed on a variable-speed scroll saw. When I get a new saw, I determine the maximum speed at which the saw cuts without too much vibration. This is often just slightly below full speed. I run at that maximum speed unless I cut fragile wood, 1/8" or thinner. The thin wood gives little resistance to the blade, making it easy to make miscuts. If that is what I am cutting, I do one of two things: slow the saw's speed down or stack cuts to add resistance. None of the above advice is an unbreakable rule. Saws are different, people get a different feel from the cuts, and blades are different. My best advice to a new scroller is to try different techniques and use what feels best. You'll learn which blades work best for various cuts, wood, and patterns with practice and ...

  See my dinosaurs here.  This is the best description I have seen for selecting a scroll saw blade. From Steve Good Blog Post Edited grammer and punctuation, https://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2024/05/welcome-gnome-scroll-saw-pattern.html If you're new to scroll sawing, you may wonder which blade to use for different wood or cuts. While there are general guidelines, the truth is that different saws, blades, and people have different preferences and skills. As an experienced scroller, I can tell you what works for me and offer some tips that may help you get started. First of all, I rarely choose a blade for the wood. Instead, I select the blade based on the pattern I'm cutting. If the pattern has small interior cuts, I use a #3 or whatever blade I need to get into the small holes. It will cut slowly, but it will cut accurately. When you see people talking about using a #9 blade to cut thicker or harder wood or a #3 for thinner or softer wood, they are talking about the ef...

  Completed wooden toy dragon ready to finish sitting on my Shopsmith belt sander table. I make this dragon to order. This dragon is my latest build. You can order one of these dragons in my Goimagine Shop . After collecting and cutting the wood to size, I attach the paper pattern to the wood and drill the required holes. I have learned that if I cut the body first and then drill the holes, and the bit catches, I can easily break the part. The dragon's original design called for holes drilled through the neck, which was too weak. I now drill the holes 1/4 inch deep and pug them with contrasting wood that I cut and sand flush. Now, there are inlaid spots instead of holes, and the neck is much stronger. After sanding the back so the pegs are flush, I cut out the body on my scroll saw. This dragon's wings will be a different color from the legs. I am curious to know what kind of wood this is; it came from a box of cutoffs a friend gave me. Cutting the legs for some 1/2" of da...