Odin's Toy Factory

Klingspor Sanding Mop Mounted On A Drill Press   See my shop here. Shopsmith 6" Belt Sander  - Useful for curved edges and flat surfaces that I want to remove material quickly. The best tool I have for sanding wheels to size. Shopsmith Disc Sander - Sometimes used for making wheels. Although this is not a powered operation, these are use full for sanding small flat parts. Delta 1" belt sander  - It does a great job on outside edges and can be used for some inside curves. I also have the  Shopsmith  version, which does the same thing and lets me do inside sanding.  Klingspor Sanding Mop  - Expensive, but worth the cost. Removes most fuzzies and leaves a silky smooth surface. Klingspor Mac Mop  - Similar to a sanding mop but a bit more aggressive.  Ridgid Spindle Sander  - Great for sanding inside curves as small as a 1/2 inch radius. It also has an oscillating belt sander.  Random Orbital Sanders  - I use these for sanding flat surfaces, such as prepping wood for the scroll sa

  My Dinosaur Collection From Steve Good Blog Post Edited grammer and punctuation, https://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2024/05/welcome-gnome-scroll-saw-pattern.html Another similar question concerns setting the speed on a variable-speed scroll saw. When I get a new saw, I determine the maximum speed at which the saw cuts without too much vibration. This is often just slightly below full speed. I run at that maximum speed unless I cut fragile wood, 1/8" or thinner. The thin wood gives little resistance to the blade, making it easy to make miscuts. If that is what I am cutting, I do one of two things: slow the saw's speed down or stack cuts to add resistance. None of the above advice is an unbreakable rule. Saws are different, people get a different feel from the cuts, and blades are different. My best advice to a new scroller is to try different techniques and use what feels best. You'll learn which blades work best for various cuts, wood, and patterns with practice and

  See my dinosaurs here.  This is the best description I have seen for selecting a scroll saw blade. From Steve Good Blog Post Edited grammer and punctuation, https://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2024/05/welcome-gnome-scroll-saw-pattern.html If you're new to scroll sawing, you may wonder which blade to use for different wood or cuts. While there are general guidelines, the truth is that different saws, blades, and people have different preferences and skills. As an experienced scroller, I can tell you what works for me and offer some tips that may help you get started. First of all, I rarely choose a blade for the wood. Instead, I select the blade based on the pattern I'm cutting. If the pattern has small interior cuts, I use a #3 or whatever blade I need to get into the small holes. It will cut slowly, but it will cut accurately. When you see people talking about using a #9 blade to cut thicker or harder wood or a #3 for thinner or softer wood, they are talking about the eff

  Pegas Precision Scroll Saw   My new Pegas saw is up and running. I read the manual and could not find any place where it talked about adjusting the upper arm parallel to the table, as my EX-21 says. I did it anyway, as it was so far off I could see it without measuring. This is the first saw I have ever had that has the guards in place. There was one on the bottom as well as the top. I removed the top guard because it significantly interfered with installing the blade, and I removed the bottom guard because it banged against the table when the saw was rum at high speed. Removing the lower guard required me to remove the table to get to the screws. I replaced the screws in case they were holding something inside. While the top was off, I discovered that the thin plastic part of the dust collection was only attached to one side. I made one from a piece of magnetic sheet that I had. After waxing the bottom of the table and everything I could not get to without removing the table, I rein

  Two of my Badger Anthen 155 Airbrushes     My Etsy Shop If you're thinking about painting toys with an airbrush, you may wonder what airbrush to use. One option that we highly recommend is the Badger 155 Anthem airbrush. This airbrush is versatile and can handle just about any paint or finish used for toy making. It's also a bottom-feed airbrush. There are Badger airbrushes that are top feed. The Badger 360 can be used for top or bottom feed. If you only need a small amount of paint, the top feed option is excellent because it allows you to use just a few drops at a time. The Badger airbrushes are made in the USA and come with excellent support from the manufacturer. If you have any questions or need help with your airbrush, the team at Badger is there to help. Overall, if you're looking for a reliable, high-quality airbrush for painting toys, the Badger 155 Anthem is a great choice. It's reliable, easy to use, and will give you great results every time. Badger 155  -

Visit My Etsy Store One important thing to note is that any compressor will work for airbrushing as long as you can regulate the pressure and filter the air. It is worth noting that none of the airbrush manufacturers make their compressors. If they do sell compressors, they are usually rebranded products from China. I have successfully used both a standard two-stage tank compressor and a Harbor Freight Central Pneumatic compressor. I even know someone who used a spare tire as an air source to paint a show car in their driveway (they used to sell an adapter that fits onto a valve stem to make this possible). The Harbor Freight compressor is a reliable and cost-effective option. It is quiet and portable, and it even comes with an airbrush. While I have no personal experience with the Harbor Freight airbrush, I have heard mixed reviews about its performance. It might work if you only plan on spraying paints explicitly designed for airbrushes. However, I often spray cheap acrylics, craft p