Odin's Toy Factory

Custom handmade Halloween cutouts made from wood or wood products made to your specifications. Sizes available up to eight inches and thicknesses from 1/4-inch to 1-1/2-inch. Larger sizes are possible. Material choices include pine, oak, poplar, MDF, and plywood. Do you have an idea for a ghost that you don't see anywhere? If you can draw it, I can probably cut it for you. The sample size shown in the photos below is currently available for purchase on my Etsy shop. If the size or materials are not what you want, contact me through my Etsy shop to place a custom order These make great pretend Halloween toys for kids. My grandson has an entire set of them and was my inspiration when I made the first ghosts. Click here for this listing. Click here to see my other Halloween items. Click here go to my shops front page. Handmade Wooden Toy Halloween Ghost Cutout Silhouette On My Work Bench Handmade Wooden Toy Halloween Ghost Cutout Silhouette Front View

Use these ghosts to make Halloween decorations, mobiles, ornaments, toys, or cake decorations. Use several or mix and match with other cutouts and create unique items. Handmade Halloween Wooden Toy Ghost Cutout Made From Pine Wood A handmade, unfinished 3/4-inch thick Halloween Ghost cut by hand on a scroll saw. It has been lightly sanded with 220 grit sandpaper and is ready to be painted. Use the ghosts as is or paint them. The kids always want colors. Unlike many thinner cutouts, these are freestanding and are good pretend toys. Handmade Halloween Wooden Toy Ghost Cutout Made From Pine Wood I can easily make these in any size up to eight inches. Sizes above eight inches require a custom printed pattern at additional cost. Handmade Halloween Wooden Toy Ghost Cutout Made From Pine Wood Hardwood, plywood, and MDF are a few of the materials I can cut ghosts from. Some materials will cost a bit more. Custom orders are always welcome. Handmade

Wooden Toy Wheel Patterns Ready To Cut With A Scroll Saw I salvaged the wood from 2x4 pieces that would typically go into the burn bucket and used for kindling the next time we have a backyard fire. Because the wheels are so small, it is simple to work around defects such as knots and pitch pockets. I resaw the wood to 1/2-inch thick on my Shopsmith band saw, sand the wood on the belt sander, apply the blue tape, and the patterns. I drill using a drill press and a very sharp brad point drill bit getting as close to the center as possible. I have tried several methods for drawing the circles on the wood using printed patterns is by far the most accurate way to do it. The blue painter's tape lets me remove the patterns with little fuss, leaves no residue, and lubricates the scroll saw blade. I made a pattern to print 35 wheels on a page. I used two and a half pages and made 88 wheels. There are always a few that are don't come out well, but the yield was very high for thi

Pipe Coupler Dust Collector Mounted ON My Harbor Freight Drill Press with a Sanding Mop In my toy making shop, I use a sanding mop a lot. It makes a considerable amount of fine dust, that is hard to collect. The 2x4 PVC pipe coupling is the best solution I have found so far. It is straightforward to build and costs about $10 if you don't already have the parts. To make the collector drill a hole in the 2x4 pipe coupling and bolt on a magnet. Then connect your shop vac. If you don't have a cast iron top an electrical box cover screwed to a piece of plywood or MDF will give you something to clamp. I used a magnet from a previous project that I didn't need anymore. I  got mine from Harbor Freight , but they are available from Amazon and eBay if you don't have a Harbor Freight store. Warning, Test your magnet to be sure you can get it off. The one I used sticks so tight I needed a pry bar to get it off. This project is a good candidate for mag switches if you move i

I make toys and fretwork. Here is my take. 1. Workbench with a Vise It doesn't have to be fancy, but you can't work without it. 2. Drill Press Everything I do uses a drill press in some form or another. Drilling, hole saw for making wheels and sanding with various attachments.  Sanding mops are a must have in my shop. You can use it as a drum sander, and there are many attachments that you can buy or make for it. 3. Belt Sander I have a 1" x 42" Delta Belt and disk sander. This one is very much like it. I also have a 6x48-inch belt sander. One or both of these get used on every project. I don't find the disk sander to be very useful. 4. Saw - Type depends on the situation. You need to cut wood  Provided you can get the wood in the thickness you need. There are many options. If all you are doing is scrollsaw projects, a hand saw will work. You can use a scroll saw in place of a bandsaw for everything but resawing lumber. You can use a scroll saw for

Harbor Freight - Pittsburgh 4 inch Ratcheting Bar Clamp The first one of these I ever saw was the next larger size. I purchased some and discovered that the clamps would not hold. I could clamp hem down tight, and a short time later I would find the clamp had loosened. I finally gave up on them when one broke and tossed them in the recycle bins. Several times over the last few years, I tried them again in the store and found that they broke easily and would not clamp tightly. I got a deal on some Irwin clamps and didn't look at them again. The one day I received an email from a trusted friend telling me how great the 4-inch clamps worked and that with a coupon I could buy them for $0.99 each. I build toys, and when I am making a large batch of them, I sometimes run out of small clamps. For $0.99 I had to give these a try. They must not make many of the Pittsburg 4-inch clamps, or they are in high demand because I had to stop by the store several times to get five of them. Once

Handmade Wooden Toy Cars Bad Bob's Custom Motors Sedans & Coupes In Various Colors Here is a fleet of cars ready for the camera. A few of them are missing from the photo. My grandson managed to talk me out of four of them. One of them he gave to his friend for a Christmas gift. These cars were a lot more work than they appeared to be looking at the number of parts. The fenders are delicate until I glued them to the body of the car. I broke several of the solid wood fenders during sanding. The next batch I make with this style fender will either have plywood or other laminated wood fenders. Baltic birch would work well, I think. The breakage problem was caused by the cross grain in the thin part of the wood. With this shape, there is no way to cut the fender where there isn't a weak point. To get around this problem, I cut the frames so the more vulnerable areas would be glued directly to the sides of the body of the wooden car. They are plenty strong once glued.